Face, Arete and Wall Climb

1 Stars

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10m. With a name like that, you need a description?


Yes please, a description would be very useful! I tried to follow the line in the Rockfax topo, but this wasn't VDiff so maybe it's wrong. The initial face would have been at least 4c I think, but I backed off and went up by the arete. The middle section was OK but probably 4a/b. And the final wall was 4b/c. Given that it's effectively a solo I'd have thought a grade like HS 4a or even VS 4b was more appropriate - but the lack of any other comments leads me to think I didn't take the right line! If polished rock is anything to go by, most people go up the wall round the corner to the left from the line in the topo, and on the final section, take the arete rather than the wall.
Simon Caldwell - 03/Aug/09

I'd certainly give this at least HS if you're following the true line stepping around the corner halfway up - there's a tough little move off the ground to reach the first big ledge, and the arete section has neither perfect protection nor big holds. Add in quite a committing move to finish, and it's a testy little number at VD! The line around the corner to the left is altogether more steady at VD.
Martin Hutchinson - 16/Jun/10

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