Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 17
Start as for Esmerelda, but trend right to the break and a rest on the right. Traverse strenuously back left along the lip then up to gain a stuck-on hold in a faint groove. Fight back right from this (moving low is a cop-out!) to follow the large flake to the belay. Phew! The easiest line up the buttress is Ouch, 7b+. Start as for Stung and follow it leftwards to finish up Esmerelda.
The route does not go right to the flake and since the loss of a hold is worth 7b+ and three stars
Harder since the loss of holds.I don't know how you can avoid the big flake on the right without making it very artificial. The route is not a classic but has one nice move on it thus making it worth one star. If Gary didn't over-rate all his routes (ie, too many stars) people might take all his hard-work and effort a little more seriously. 'Stung' is not a route of major national importance and therefore not worth 3 stars.
Gary is totally correct. This route obviously goes direct, is 7b+ and 3 stars.
Agreed, though only 7b before the hold broke.
Avoiding final flake on the right at the top would feel very contrived. Going direct is not the obvious finish. Rubber & chalk suggests everyone else thinks so too.
Rubbish, I have done this loads of times and never even thought of moving far right to the flake. You make a move right, and then go straight up via a difficult and weird hand type jam in order to snatch for the jug rail.
Depends what you call a flake... I'd call the feature with the jug rail and the features below it a flake (there's an even bigger one further right) From some of the previous comments & the description in the NL book it reads like you should climb the upper wall to the left of the bolts.
A link starting as for Stung and finishing up Esmerelda has been done, Ouch, grade 7b/7b+?