The Golden Mile

3 Stars
 E5 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< A Widespread Lack of Imagination < The Freedom Trap  |  The Dream Mile > Apocalypse >>

Vying with Supersonic on High Tor as the best E5 on Peak limestone; but this one is almost a full grade harder. E3 5c climbing leads up the groove with good holds and adequate protection to a rest ledge on the right (bomber crucial nuts). Now climb deviously and determinedly up and left to pockets (in-situ thread) below the sloping ledge. Getting established on this is difficult and leads to a semi-rest, but beware, the upper wall climbed from left to right has taken many scalps. Traverse left to the Mortlock's belay or continue up Apocalypse.
FA. Pete Livesey, Alec Livesey 1980. Livesey's last great route in the Peak which was named because Livesey had told Ron Fawcett that he was going to Blackpool for the day, but instead he sneaked here to pick this plum.


Who gave this easy 6b? Thought it was a nails and baffling experience near the thread. What a blinder of a route, another Livesey gem!
phatlad - 18/Jul/05

not too bad for 6b when you get it right, but certainly baffling, and absolutely awesome. Best route at Chee Tor.
toby - 04/Aug/08

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