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Yet another superb Peak E4. Pitch 1 has the technical well-protected crux, but pitch two provides the real challenge.
1) 6a, 22m. Easy climbing leads into the corner which is followed with increasing difficulty. Returning from a slight detour onto the left wall provides the crux shortly before the break is reached. Lash yourself in.
2) 5c, 18m. Pull over the roof to gain the flake and follow it strenuously on good holds, pausing on occasion to frantically stuff in gear. Save some courage for the final moves off the flake. Move left to follow Mortlock's to finish.
FA. Steve Bancroft, John Allen - the only E6 in Bancroft's 1977 Recent Developments guide. As this was full of notorious sand-bags he must have had a torrid time on this route.
Even Better if you do the whole route as a single pitch.
Philip Smith - 13/Mar/02
Agreed - superb as a single pitch but be careful of rope drag (a few long slings useful) otherwise the final groove of Mortlock's becomes a real struggle!
Dave Marsh - 01/Jul/02
Both pitches cleaned July 2008. Bottom pitch was extremely vegetated and covered in thick powder. Crux still a bit dusty, needs more traffic.
Graham Hoey - 16/Jul/08
not too dirty today (thanks Graham); the crux is probably the dirtiest bit of the route though, aspirants should take a good stiff brush along!
toby - 25/Jul/08
First pitch filthy again - May 2010. Only really an issue on the crux so take a good brush (I didn't) and it should be fine.
Eric Hildrew - 17/May/10
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