Magical Mystery Tour Top 50

3 Stars
 6a+ S1

Adjacent Routes
<< None < None  |  Green Grotto Traverse > Caveman >>

A titanic expedition, taking the intrepid soloist through moments of wetness, doubt, ecstasy and relief; this route could change your life!
420m. Start in the Great Cave. Climb across the easy reefs of the Great Cave, to regain the sunshine once more. Continue along a wall of endless jugs and dinner-plate holds, moving up and down a bit, to finally pass a hanging face, which is the crux (possible low barnacle variation, but still hard).
Continue along to the Green Grotto entrance, where you may well have to get damp, or briefly swim, to pass by (depending on the tide level). Follow the juggy wall all the way along to the bigger Blue Grotto entrance. Options here are a swim over to the ridge, or a higher traverse around a weakness, also gaining the big ridge. The normal method these days simply continues on into the Blue Grotto, which is the perfect and quite delightful end to your adventure, featuring an amazing drop-across gully section on big pockets, as well as an exciting finale. Finish by climbi Not in current guidebook.


Possibly the most fun route in the world. Did it for the first time last Saturday. Did it there and back on the Sunday. Did it again this Saturday on a different tide. It's such a great route to have a laugh on with your friends. Don't be put off by the section around the Great Cave. It's as hard as anything on the route. Don't go on it on a low spring tide- bits are then a little tasty. Enjoy.
John Alcock - 17/Aug/09

Dave Johnson - 08/Sep/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 10
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