Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 60
A fine and popular pitch to push your E-grade on. It has a few bold sections but overall it is low in the grade and adequately protected if you stay cool. Start 3m left of the groove of Sunny Goodge Street. Climb diagonally leftwards past a hard bit to a rest. Move up then right onto some smooth holds and a decent runner or two. Continue slightly leftwards with difficulty then up onto easier ground and a belay in the break.
The bold section above the ramp is quite hard. I ended up climbing too high and having to make a frightening traverse back left to the good holds. not as easy as people seem to make out due to the plummet potential."a decent runner or two" is a bit of a laugh, I managed a sideways rock 5!!
I am happy to confirm that the sideways Rock 5 in the pocket was good enough to hold a fall from 2 foot short of the easy ground.
Wallnut 5 doesn't seem to work! V.safe but V.bold. And reachy. And committing. Good value. Now a bit cleaner as I pulled some plants out.
Don't know what the bold comments are about. Good gear all the way. Rock 5 was fine, and a solid RP at the start of the crux.
i had ran out of 5's so i had two sideways rock fours to protect the crux. not reachy i didnt think if you get the right foot sequence. steve led this after me and got a rock 3 and a rock 1 in as well as the 2 rock 4's for the crux. it does feel bold but it is safe. worth the fluttery symbol
Spring cleaned last week
3 star route. All the gear is bomber. There is a 'go for it' section without any gear, but it does have a hands-off rest a few feet below it. It's probably the abundance of rests that make this "low in the grade".
Super route. Low in the grade and well protected in my view. (Even without a full set of small wires, which were accidentally left in the car!)