Passion and Warfare

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Stinging Cracks < Pension and Busfare  |  Division and Fanfare > Slimline >>

The wall to the right of Stinging Cracks is an enjoyable and technical sport route. The normal method on the crux is to go out left, but direct is also possible at the same grade.
FA. Chris Hardy, Nadim Siddiqui 6.11.1993


The original route and the best way up the wall.Intricate and fingery-excellent.
nigel baker - 12/Feb/04

wandering line and awkward climbing, not much fun all in all, 0 stars.
richardh - 16/May/05

Spoilt by two bollox eliminates squeezed in on either side, making it really hard to work out where this actually goes. Poor/dirty rock high up. Probably a 1 star route before, not worth any now.
Andy Hobson - 13/May/09

Failed on this due to pump and rope drag. Great climbing on great rock, but HARD all the way. Harder than any other F7a I've flashed/attempted.

It is also spoilt, as Hobby says, by the confusing of additional eliminates. The bolting is nonsensical and encourages either bad rope drag or massive runouts. It would be worth a solid 3 stars with rebolting on the actual climbing line (which is correct in Yorkshire Limestone), or by using two ropes. That's a top tip for you, I got fúcked over by this route so you don't have to ;).
Fiend - 12/Jul/09

I did this again a few weeks ago and still think it worth 2 stars if not 3. It was never an easy route to on-sight and the definitive guidebook description does hint at the need for 'deceptive and subtle sidesteps' and explains the need to move right across the upper tower. How much more info do you need? The bolts are all in just the right places as far as I am concerned (but then I would think that as I re-bolted it a few years ago).
Dave Musgrove - 17/Aug/10

I went back to this today for another look - it took a while to work out where exactly it went (and the other bolts really don't help in this regard), but once I'd sorted it out the bolting does make sense although there are still a number of reachy/awkward clips to be made.

Fiend is spot on about the grade comments - it's definitely 7a+; the moves are technical and sustained and there's no real respite until very close to the top. Good climbing though and I'll retract my star rating comment, although I still feel the squeezed in route to the left spoils things.
Andy Hobson - 17/Apr/11

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 16
    hard 7a+ 0 of 10
    7a+ 0 of 10
    easy 7a+ 1 of 10
    hard 7a 3 of 10
    7a 5 of 10
    easy 7a 1 of 10
    hard 6c+ 0 of 10
    6c+ 0 of 10
    easy 6c+ 0 of 10
    3 Stars 1 of 6
    2 Stars 4 of 6
    1 Star 0 of 6
    0 Stars 1 of 6
    Bag of ..... 0 of 6

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.