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To the left of the crest of the buttress a flake leans against the slabs. Start up a crack in the front face of this.<br/>1) N4. Steady climbing up flakes to a stance on top.<br/>2) and 3) N5. Quite bold with fairly big run-outs to make the belay, but technically straightforward. Pitch 2 has a single bolt belay at the end of the traverse to aim for.<br/>4) Originally there was a belay on the left but it is better to head up to the ledge then traverse right to belay in the crack.<br/>5) N5+. The crack is pretty wide. Take a couple of big cams.<br/>6) N6-. A nice technical groove.<br/>7) N4+. The last pitch looks a good bit harder than the rest and pretty dirty; a traverse right leads to a pitch of heather and filth. Fortunately it is technically easy.
FA. Trond Seem, Haakon Christiansen 7.7.1994
Did this in early August 08 - this is now three months later so the details are a bit fuzzy but hey.......
Pitch 1 is a doddle - Hard Severe?
Pitches 2 & 3 are pretty bold - both have fairly big run outs to make the belay but are technically pretty easy - HVS 4c 1sh?..... Pitch 2 has a single bolt belay at the end of the traverse to aim for
Pitch 4 could be straightened out - instead of heading up and left to belay, head up to the ledge as per description and then traverse right as per the pitch 5 description to belay in the crack that the described Pitch 5 ascends (make sense?!).
Pitch 6 is pretty wide (if you know what I mean). If you're not into that, take a couple of Friend 4s - or a five if you can be bothered - HVS 5a?
Pitch 7 is a nice technical groove - E15b?
Pitch 8 is easy VS ish
We couldn't work out the last pitch - it looked a good touch harder than the rest and pretty dirty. However a traverse right (obvious) leads to a gogarthesque pitch of heather and filth (technically easy)
Now, the fun bit........
The guide suggests heading up to the ridge and then dropping down to the left to access a gully (shown as a descent on the topo). We couldn't work this out - there doesn't seem to be a sensible way off the summit ridge (the backside is a pretty big wall - you can see this as you drive into Reine from the North).
Ascend up and diagonally left from the top of the route for circa 200 metres until you reach a big grasy bowl (obvious). Traverse this to find yourself at the top of a West facing gully, leading down towards the fjord (obvious boulder at top). Descend the gully via 9(?) abseils off threads and slung boulders, with a steep abseil in the lower reaches of the gully, until it is possible to scramble down to the fjord and the approach.
A good day out - by way of comparison, felt more demanding thanm Vestpillaren.
tomovenstone - 11/Nov/08
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