The American Tourist
<< It's All About the Numbers < Looks can be Deceiving | Sea Breeze > Midtgardsormen >>
Fine but very bold climbing up the left-hand side of the slab - one for the committed. Though both this and Sea Breeze have only a grade between them, this one in particular is a serious undertaking, with minimal protection and some indifferent belays. Skyhooks may be found useful as runners, or as a means of escape if things get too much! Start 100m left of the flake at the toe of the slab, where there is a small grass ledge amongst the ferns.
1) 5-, 30m. Trend right via friction and the occasional flake to a stance in the base of a shallow groove. Scary!
2) 5, 45m. Move left then climb the face before trending right to a stance at the base of a huge flake laid on the slab. Scary!!
3) 5+, 50m. Climb the flake to its end then trend left across the slab before climbing to the base of a thin crack. Scary!!!
4) 5+, 45m. Climb straight up the slab (effectively unprotected) to a poor stance at a down-pointing flake. Very scary!!!!
5) 5, 50m. Trend right via the occasional flake (poor protection again) to a stance at the base of a long curving overlap. Scary!
6) 5, 45m. Move right to the second overlap and follow the crack (runners - yippee!) to a stance.
7) 3+, 50m. Easy climbing leads to the ledges above the slab.
FA. Thorbjørn Enevold, Andreas Bergwall, Ed Webster 4.8.1991