Sea Breeze

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
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The natural line of the slab is bold and has a rather scrappy upper section, though there is also plenty of good climbing. Start at the toe of the buttress on top of a fallen flake. The upper section is foreshortened on the topo - expect some grass/heather/juniper scrambling to the high ledge.<br/>1) N4+, 35m. Climb direct via scoops and grooves to a stance in a shallow corner - old peg and nut belays.<br/>2) N4+, 28m. Keep in the same line to a loose flake, then traverse left to a belay on a big flake at the base of a crack up the right-hand side of a huge flake.<br/>3) N5-, 55m. Climb the crack to its end then continue in the same line to a stance on a big block at the base of 'The Webster Arch' - a large left-trending overlap.<br/>4) N5, 45m. Climb the slab on the right to a stance. Alternatively layback the flake (worth 5+ and watch the rope-work) then move right at its top to a stance.<br/>5) N5-, 40m. Follow flakes and grooves rightwards (some grass) to a stance. Better climbing is had by heading straight up the face to the same stance - poor pro. <br/>6) N4, 45m. Continue in the same line to a stance at a flake (peg).<br/>7) N5, 40m. A friction slab (crux) leads up and slightly right to an overlap. Continue direct to belay on a hollow flake on the left. There is a slightly easier/safer variation to the left. <br/>8) N3, 50m. Easy climbing leads to the ledges above the slab.
FA. (to top of pitch 3) Thorbjørn Enevold, Lutta Fageri 5.1991,FA. (full route) Ed Webster, Thorbjørn Enevold 8.1991


A pleasant route. The old bolts are just single 8mm. Take some tat and spare nuts for abseiling off.
Steve Lenartowicz - 12/Mar/08

A few things to say. It is pretty bold, but apart from pitch 7 not desperatly so. Pitch 4 the webster arch is very good. Pitch 7 is probably the boldest and most insecure pitch, it is also difficult to tell if you are on route. As for it easing above the overlap, well we didn't think so. To get off, we thought the bolts looked pretty shoddy and so followed the descent in the guidebook.
jon bursnall - 01/May/08

Would agree with comment No2. Overall feeling is fluttery alright, but great friction, good belay points and overall a nice climb (better I am sure second time around)Pitch 7 is sparse on gear with a diffucult move or two to become established on the small slopy holds on the ripply seam, no problem elsewhere but at 200m it is a different story. Upper section is steeper and scrappy and very fore shortened, with grass/heather/juniper to compete with. We also came down the gully on the LHS as looking at the crag (cross the stream, keep going to you see the slings on a birch tree). You do not really need to ab down the gully. Only one short steep section
Superterence - 29/Jul/08

I agree with the comments above. The two final pitches were bold and quite hard, especially pitch 7. I suggest the technical grade on the final two pitches should be higher than the first two pitches, which I was able to climb in trainers. To get to the easy descent gully go left along the vegetated ledge (facing the crag). You have to go down and then back up to get to the top of the descent.
Andrew - 13/Oct/08

I just want to add some usefull information. There is a tunnel under the cliff. The road you can see in the picture in the guide is closed for cars coming from the south. We used just two abseils down the gully, the uper one from a smal tree 60m deeper is a two bolt and chain anchor.
felix - 15/Jul/12

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