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Named after a mythical monster that protects the human race from the outside world. Start under a left-facing series of flakes to the left of a vertically cracked wall.<br/>1) N6+, 35m. Climb the flakes for 10m then swing right across the wall (bold) and head into the left-facing groove. At its top, where things blank out, pull out right then up to belay at the base of a huge left-facing groove.<br/>2) N6+, 25m. A tricky start gains the groove which is climbed to a belay on the right, at the left-hand end of a long grass ledge.<br/>3) N6+, 20m. Step into the groove and jam up to the overhang. Pull left around this (exposed) to reach a thin crack. Climb up this to a stance in a bay.<br/>4) N3, 60m. Climb out of the bay via its left-hand corner, then scramble diagonally rightwards to a belay on a large block.
FA. Andy Perkins, Clive Davis 7.1994