3 Stars

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(Memory Crack) For a while the hardest trad route on Lofoten - this fearsome overhanging roof crack makes Yosemite's famous Separate Reality look a bit feeble. The climbing is safe with enough cams but it will tax the strongest of climbers, and unless you are a really proficient jammer, then you might as well forget it. Start at the right end of the ledge with blocks and flakes under the roof and climb up to reach the crack. Follow it past a little niche and then a flake to a crucial thin section, beyond which the crack becomes vertical and a ledge can be reached. Getting onto the belay ledge is all part of the fun. Recovering the gear is another problem!
FA. Robert Caspersen 10.6.2002. The route was named in memory of Robert's brother Pål Espen who died in an abseiling accident on Presten on 10.6.2000.


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