Pizzatyven Top 50

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
 6

Adjacent Routes
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(The Pizza Thief) A series of short cracks and corners which start on the steep slab at the cliff's base. Originally an aid climb done in the depths of winter, it is still used for aid training on occasions, but hammerless only please.<br/>1) N5- 30m. Climb the near-parallel finger-cracks to the big ledge then traverse leftwards to a belay under the right arete.<br/>2) N5-, 25m. Start up the crack system on the right side of the bottom slab. At its top, balance left to a small stance and belay.<br/>3) N6, 12m. Climb the steep groove above with hard moves at the top, then exit left to a good ledge.<br/>4) N5, 15m. Move right into a steep corner/groove and climb this to reach the comfort of a large ledge on the right.<br/>5) N5+, 18m. At the back of the ledge climb the steep corner then, after a few metres, switch to the crack on the right to eventually pass the roof. Finish up easy slabs.
FAA. Odd-Roar Wiik (solo) 11.1993 as Teknisk Trening (Aid Practice).,FFA. Odd-Roar Wiik, Thorbjørn Enevold 6.1995. They had plans for Presten but ended up in the Cafe making pizza for tourists. Eventually they nicked a couple of slices and headed off to free this fine route.

USER COMMENTS

Great route, varied and interesting.

P3 is hard for 6 and pitch 4 is harder again with a desperate move to access the ledge. Probably 7-.
Chris Craggs - 08/Jun/08

Further research reveals that the P4 in the guide is not the original way - hence why we found it so hard. It climbs the crack to the right of the belay to a ledge under the big roof then the crack to the right of this.
We did a Direct Finish which may or may not be new.
Chris Craggs - 08/Jul/08

Did it a few days ago following the amended instructions in the update. Pitch 3 was the hardest (although I don't feel qualified to say whether it was hard for 6). Pitch 4 felt like a gritstone 5a. Great route
Charles Moreton - 28/Jun/10

P3 seems like 6, but perhaps harder for short climbers. P4 is more like 5. The revised description for P4 says to belay below an overhang -- wrong; climb a corner to an overhang, then step right to a huge ledge.
Jim - 17/Jul/10

Nice but short. Well protected and ideal if the weather is unstable.
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12

Pitch grades: (1) VS 4c, (2) VS 4c, (3) E1 5c, (4) HVS 5a, (5) HS 4b (overall E1 5c maybe). Or in Norwegian (guessing), 5, 5, 6, 5+, 4+. Three stars.
Coel Hellier - 31/Jul/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 12
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