Pizzatyven Top 50

3 Stars

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(The Pizza Thief) The route follows a series of cracks and corners which start on the steep slab at the cliff's base. Originally and aid climb done in the depths of winter, it is still used for aid training on occasions, but hammerless only please.
1) 5- 30m. Climb the near-parallel finger cracks to the big ledge then traverse the grassy ledge leftwards to a belay under the right arete of the big slab.
2) 5-, 25m. Start up the obvious crack system on the right side of the bottom slab and at its top balance left to a small stance and bolt belay.
3) 6, 10m. Climb up a steep corner, climbing leftwards through the overhang to a belay on a good ledge. Hard for the short.
4) 5, 15m. From the right end of the ledge climb the left-facing corner to reach the comfort of a large ledge on the right.
5) 5+ 18m. At the back of the ledge climb the steep corner, then after a few metres, switch to the crack on the right to eventually pass the roof. Finish up easy slabs.
4a) Direct Finish 7- 24m. The the easy flake above the belay spike leads to a desperate rightwards mantel onto a ledge. Easy cracks and corners remain.
FAA. Odd-Roar Wiik (solo) 11.1993 as Teknisk Trening (Aid Practice).,FFA. Odd Roar Wiik, Thorbjørn Enevold 6.1995. The guys had planned on Presten but ended up in the Cafe making pizza for tourists. Eventually they nicked a couple of slices and headed off to free this fine route.,FRA. The Direct Finish was done by Colin Binks and Chris Craggs in 6.2008, though it may well have been done before. The harrowing rightward mantel was the first indication that the line in the guide might not be quite right.


Great route, varied and interesting.

P3 is hard for 6 and pitch 4 is harder again with a desperate move to access the ledge. Probably 7-.
Chris Craggs - 08/Jun/08

Further research reveals that the P4 in the guide is not the original way - hence why we found it so hard. It climbs the crack to the right of the belay to a ledge under the big roof then the crack to the right of this.
We did a Direct Finish which may or may not be new.
Chris Craggs - 08/Jul/08

Did it a few days ago following the amended instructions in the update. Pitch 3 was the hardest (although I don't feel qualified to say whether it was hard for 6). Pitch 4 felt like a gritstone 5a. Great route
Charles Moreton - 28/Jun/10

P3 seems like 6, but perhaps harder for short climbers. P4 is more like 5. The revised description for P4 says to belay below an overhang -- wrong; climb a corner to an overhang, then step right to a huge ledge.
Jim - 17/Jul/10

Nice but short. Well protected and ideal if the weather is unstable.
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12

Pitch grades: (1) VS 4c, (2) VS 4c, (3) E1 5c, (4) HVS 5a, (5) HS 4b (overall E1 5c maybe). Or in Norwegian (guessing), 5, 5, 6, 5+, 4+. Three stars.
Coel Hellier - 31/Jul/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 12
    hard 6+ 0 of 6
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