Soria Moria Top 50

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Applecake Arete < Lys og skygge  |  Castle Dracula > Nye tider >>

(A castle in a Norwegian fairy-tale) A tough climb up the big groove. Once a hard aid route and now a harder free one.<br/>1) N7, 30m. As for Lys og skygge, but continue for 10m to a small stance - poor bolt belay or a decent nut belay below. <br/>2) N7+, 35m. Sustained and hard climbing follows the thin cracks up the large right-leaning groove all the way to the top.
FA. Odd-Roar Wiik, Niels Poulsen (aid) 3.1993,FFA. Linus Kullstad late 1990s


I would not trust the bolted belay if it hasn't been rebolted since summer 07. It is possible to get a decent belay a few meters down from the bolts, using a good nut, backed up by the bolts.
This is one of the coolest climbs on Lofoten.
Gustaf Leijonhufvud - 24/Apr/08

This one seems to loose its pitons quite rapidly. My partner pulled one of the remaining pitons in beginning of July. We bailed.
Jonas Wiklund - 29/Jul/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 4
    hard 8- 0 of 2
    8- 0 of 2
    easy 8- 1 of 2
    hard 7+ 0 of 2
    7+ 1 of 2
    easy 7+ 0 of 2
    hard0 of 2
    0 of 2
    easy0 of 2
    3 Stars 2 of 2
    2 Stars 0 of 2
    1 Star 0 of 2
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