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(A castle in a Norwegian fairytale) A difficult climb up the prominent right-trending groove. Originally a hard aid route and now a harder free one.
1) 7, 30m. As for Lys og skygge, but continue for 10m to a small stance - poor bolt belay, a decent nut belay below.
2) 7+, 35m. Sustained and hard climbing follows the thin cracks up the large right-leaning groove all the way to the top.
FA. Odd-Roar Wiik, Niels Poulsen (aid) 3.1993,FFA. Linus Kullstad late 1990s
I would not trust the bolted belay if it hasn't been rebolted since summer 07. It is possible to get a decent belay a few meters down from the bolts, using a good nut, backed up by the bolts.
This is one of the coolest climbs on Lofoten.
Gustaf Leijonhufvud - 24/Apr/08
This one seems to loose its pitons quite rapidly. My partner pulled one of the remaining pitons in beginning of July. We bailed.
Jonas Wiklund - 29/Jul/09
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