Månens døtre

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Ørnens brødre < Solens sønner  |  Skåningen > Lay-bye Layback >>

(Daughters of the Moon) This route has always played second fiddle to Solens sønner, but after the typical Lofoten start, it develops into a great but bold climb. It ascends the cliff's central crack system and the middle of the huge upper slab. Above the starting ledge is a right-facing flake with shrubbery - this is it.<br/>1) N6-, 24m. Climb up behind the flake, up a slab, through a bush, and then up a short, strenuous and muddy fist-crack to easier ground and a belay on flakes.<br/>2) N5+, 30m. Continue up a grassy crack, then climb a bushy continuation crack which becomes a perfect clean finger-crack leading to a large belay ledge.<br/>3) N5+, 30m. Climb up the slab above (just right of a bush) to a horizontal crack. Clip a high bolt, then step right and climb up a clean slab to a ramp protected by a second bolt. Now move up right to a tiny foothold belay stance (fixed nuts) at the base of the upper finger-crack.<br/>4) N6, 55m. Climb the upper finger-crack until it ends. Move up and left then back right, past very two spaced bolts, to a sloping ledge with a double-bolt belay - harrowing!
FA. Ed Webster, Johan Sandberg 15.8.1993. On their second attempt.


Pitch 4 is WAY runout; everything else is reasonable.
Jim - 17/Jul/10

On the first ascent, Ed bolted on lead. The batteries were far from perfect, hence the spacious bolt placements on pitch 4.
Johan Sandberg - 30/Jun/18

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