Djupfjord Buttress

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Fish Restaurant < The Best of Nothing  |  Mandragora > Dr. Jekyll >>

The right-hand side of the long ridge in about seven pitches - great rock and gradually easing as height is gained with some nice jamming and good slab climbing. Stances can be taken at many places along the way.
FA. Thorbjørn Enevold, Lutta Fagerli 1995. A nice piece of rock that may have been climbed earlier and not recorded.


1st pitch was a great sustained 40meter hand crack in a corner etc. 2nd pitch was an ok slab but the rest of the route mostly scrambling...
jukka leinonen - 10/Jul/11

Dont agree. The rock is not always super clean, but solid. Feels a bit more alpine then Pianokraken.
First pitch is steep with good holds. We did the belay at the left side after 25m. Followed then a brilliant handcrack, another Belay after 30m.
Easy but superbe climbing up a slab.
The upper part follows a corner system. Often a bit dirty and grassy but also with nice sections.
Much better then for example Mygan.

Good to know: The abseil for the approach is not necessary. Just follow the natural approach to the lowest part. There is a fixed rope you cant see before the last moment.
Urs Odermatt - 08/Jul/15

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