Djupfjord Buttress

1 Stars

Adjacent Routes
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The right-hand side of the long ridge in about 7 pitches - great rock and gradually easing as height is gained. Stances can be taken at many places along the way.
Descent - Head down the grassy ramp on the right, to arrive above the Two Faces Face and continue in the same line.
FA. Thorbjørn Enevold, Lutta Fagerli 1995. A nice piece of rock that may have been climbed earlier and not recorded.


1st pitch was a great sustained 40meter hand crack in a corner etc. 2nd pitch was an ok slab but the rest of the route mostly scrambling...
jukka leinonen - 10/Jul/11

Dont agree. The rock is not always super clean, but solid. Feels a bit more alpine then Pianokraken.
First pitch is steep with good holds. We did the belay at the left side after 25m. Followed then a brilliant handcrack, another Belay after 30m.
Easy but superbe climbing up a slab.
The upper part follows a corner system. Often a bit dirty and grassy but also with nice sections.
Much better then for example Mygan.

Good to know: The abseil for the approach is not necessary. Just follow the natural approach to the lowest part. There is a fixed rope you cant see before the last moment.
Urs Odermatt - 08/Jul/15

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