Coley Smoke

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
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A line up the cracks and grooves in the centre of the buttress. Start below and left of the prominent straight crack that splits three offset overhangs. A decent choice if Bare blåbær is busy.<br/>1) N4, 30m. A wandering pitch up the slabs, trending leftwards to a belay at the foot of the attractive open groove.<br/>2) N5, 30m. Climb the groove to a stance on the left at its top.<br/>3) N5-, 30m. Climb up and right, then leftwards to a short steep crack splitting the overlap. Continue up the cracks above then move right to a constricted belay in the chimney on the right, at the top of the prominent corner system.<br/>4) N5-, 30m. Climb the chimney past the jammed boulder and follow the groove until the delightful finger-crack in the slab to the left can be reached. Belay well back on a good ledge by a block and tree.
FA. Nick Ashton, Glenn Henry, Dave Musgrove 11.8.1998


Quite broken up and not so great -- two stars at best.
Jim - 17/Jul/10

Agree with comment above. But a nice alterative if the queue on blåbær is too long.
Anders - 16/Aug/10

Two stars would be OK by me as well. I actually had the best climbing on the grade 5 pitch on "The very expencive ticket" that one usually uses to get to the rappelling station on top of Bare Blåbär. We did the approach quite hastily this time around and managed to do it in 75minutes. I'd say 60minutes means no rests etc.
jukka leinonen - 31/Aug/10

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