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A route that covers some of the same ground as Coley Smoke albeit in a more direct version. Start at a large finger-shaped boulder at ground level, below a scooped boulder with three grooves in its top half.
1) 5, 25m. Climb the centre of the scoop and exit via the middle one of the three grooves. Continue up easy slabs to a spike belay below the main crack.
2) 5, 30m. Climb steeply up the jagged crack then, when the angle eases, step right into a left-slanting groove. Up this as it steepens into a blind layback crack then, where this ends, step right and belay a little higher below some loose blocks.
3) 5+, 40m. Move left for 5m over the loose blocks (care needed) to gain the main corner. Follow this past a roof to where it steepens. Pass the steepening with difficulty then belay in the base of the chimney above.
4) 5-, 30m. As for Coley Smoke.
FA. Michael Hayes, Graham Weston 8.8.2001