Very Expensive Ticket
<< Coley Smoke < Child's Play | Rännesnärja > Whale Meet Again >>
The crest of the broad pillar to the left of the central chimney system, initially up the huge left-facing groove, then up the rounded crest of the buttress.
1) 4+, 40m. From blocks, climb easy slabs, grooves and cracks to a stance below and left of the huge left-facing corner system.
2) 7, 30m. Gain the corner and climb it with increasing difficulty, - poor protection. The final section may be done with a bit of aid at 6+ A2. Above the roof, belay on a good flake.
3) 6+, 30m. Bold! Climb the slabs to a small flake (gear) then continue climbing in the same line to the sanctuary of the crack systems. Up these to the grass ledge.
4) 5, 50m. Climb the left-facing grooves to a stance on a ledge with blocks.
5) 3, 20m. Easy slabs lead to top of the central gully.
6) 4+, 50m. Follow the groove and then easy slabs all the way rightwards to the belay at the top of Bare blåbær.
Descent - Abseil down Bare blåbær, taking care that the ropes don't jam on the second abseil, and avoiding annoying those who are having their own epics on the way up.
FA. Pawel Grenda, Bartek Malinowski, Marcin Szymelfenig (Poland) 16.6.2005
I didn't feel at home on the stance after the 4th pitch: some rock came off from the main wall and the boulders aren't that big I enjoy using them for slinging. They are about casket size and I'd prefer the playhouse-size.
jukka leinonen - 31/Aug/10
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