<< Bare blåbær < Filling in the Blanks | Triumfbuen > Haakon's Restless Crack >>
This is the parallel crack system between Bare blåbær and the Black Arch. It features some excellent hand-jamming, but there is also a difficult thin crack, plus a long unprotected off-width pitch. Carry tiny wires and a good selection of cams.
1) 4, 26m. Climb the first short pitch of Bare blåbær.
2) 6, 44m. Jam up the finger-crack at the start of Bare blåbær pitch 2, then traverse right across the face into a thin crack. Climb this then make a hard traverse into the perfect crack on the right. Take a semi-hanging belay here.
3) 6, 50m. Continue up the superb crack system which starts as a hand-crack then slowly becomes thinner until it narrows to just a thin seam just above the Black Arch. Make off-balance jamming moves up the thin crack to the bolted belay at the top of pitch 4 of Bare blåbær, or in the cracks just below this.
4) 4+, 45m. A long and unprotected off-width leads up the left side of the huge detached flake above. Belay at the top of the flake. Abseil from the bolts over to the left or:
5) and 6) Finish up Bare blåbær.
FA. (Middle section - the traverse and hand-crack) Odd-Roar Wiik, Jørgen Sundby, Borghild Hansen 7.1989. FA. (as described) Thorbjørn Enevold, Per Kylner, Jenny Gustavsson 8.7.1993
Pitch 2 is well protected with small cams, and the second can be well protected by placing a high piece in the crack above the belay. Pitch 3 is stellar, and made easier by stemming into the great arch!
Jim - 17/Jul/10
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