Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 23
The large open corner gives the best mid-grade trad route on the crag, which can be climbed if a little seepage is present. High in the sky and low in the grade. 1) 5a, 27m. Follow the corner to a bulge. Move onto the right wall and climb up before stepping back into the corner and a ledge on the left. All a bit floral but very pleasant. 2) 5b, 20m. Climb above the belay to a bulge. Pull around this awkwardly to gain a rest (thread). Move left and climb up to a tree. Traverse back into the corner and follow it to the top and a bolt belay/lower-off. A direct finish up the corner System of a Down, E4 6b gives a technical and equally good but hard alternative.
Excellent climbing up the line of the crag and it never gets done. I don't care if you've done comedy, you haven't done kilnsey's finest until you've dragged your over-size biceps up this.
A great route - a bit floral and rattly but a classic Kilnsey experience. Can be done even when quite wet by neat bridging.
I've done it at least 5 times. It's probably the best E2 on Yorks Limestone. It may look grassy from below but once you start bridging all you see are perfect holds and space beneath your feet!
And if you do the top pitch and walk over towards the top of Dominatrix you will find a nice new abseil station to get down without walking 3 miles through the farmers field. 2 abs down.
On second pitch I just kept going up the corner, to give some really good climbing although much harder than the normal way at ~6a? to finish at a lower off. There is some fixed gear so what is this direct route?
Currently bone dry. A few ascents would clean it up nicely. Direct up the Diedre looks hard and quality. What is it?
Line in rockfax is wrong. From belay you move right then back left. Also higher up, when it stops feeling like 5b, move left to the big tree, then follow the traverse line back right to lower off's