3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Ice Spurt Special < Division of Labour  |  Northern Exposure > North Star >>

The super-steep line on the left side of the wall is one of the UK's great 7c pitches. A couple of pieces of gear are needed at the start. The pull leftwards into the steep crack above the first overhang is difficult but the final lurch over the roof to gain the lower-off is the crux.
FA. Martin Berzins, Chris Sowden 23.6.1985


One of the best routes I've done, on a par with comedy! Bold in places but not gripping. Low in the grade, just don't cock it up above the top roof!
Dominic Ward - 21/Apr/06

Dear Nic, you do know it doesnt count if you pull on the bolts?
Ged Desforges - 30/Jun/06

It would be a better route if it was properely bolted as there is still many loose blocks that will fall off at some point near the start. Yesterday we pulled off enough rock to fill a bucket!
Compared with all the other routes on North Buttress the run out between the bolts are excessive. It's another case of 'traditional Yorshire values' overriding common sence since if certain bolts did fail serious injury is guaranteed.
Richard Davies - 22/Apr/07

Where else would you suggest putting bolts in? I did this just after Easter 2007 and found no looseness at all. Diet time maybe ;)
andy farnell - 29/Apr/07

A bolt at the bottom and one on the lip of the first roof. There's a few loose holds before you get to the first bolt. Maybe you also didn't notice the 'good' holds between first and second bolts are actualy made of wobbly blocks, all of which could fall out.
Yes - it's mostly easy climbing but if the bolt above the first roof failed (and the rock where it's placed is cracked) then somebody would probably die.
Do you need glasses?
Richard Davies - 05/May/07

The bolting as it presently stands is in keeping with the original caracter of the route.
There is risk in climbing. If you don't want to accept this risk then do another route, or put some gear in (there are placements IIRC), or use a stick clip to pre-clip a higher bolt. Just because it's a sport route doesn't mean it has to be bolted like an indoor route. In my opinion adding more bolts would detract from the climbing experience.
boy - 08/May/07

Cement cracking around many of the glue-ins makes it quite unnerving at times - some folk are putting an 8ft sling on the rusty old bolt 1m right of the 4th clip just to back it up - seems sensible being that if this failed u may be on the floor.
Ted Kingsnorth - 01/Jun/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 42
    hard 7c+ 0 of 25
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    easy 7c+ 0 of 25
    hard 7c 5 of 25
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    easy 7c 8 of 25
    hard 7b+ 5 of 25
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    3 Stars 16 of 17
    2 Stars 1 of 17
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