Himmel og Helvete

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Muldvarpen < Tarzan  |  To krigere > Korstoget >>

(Heaven and Hell) A climb of contrast; the first six pitches (Heaven) are great, up perfect cracks in white granite; the top half (Hell) follows a black basalt dike - unprotected and grassy. The route sees few repeats because of the upper half.<br/>1) N6, 45m. Step right into the right-hand of a pair of grooves. Follow this to a thin crack and climb this to a belay ledge.<br/>2) N4, 15m. Climb a short crack on the right to the top of a pedestal and good ledge.<br/>3) N6+, 45m. Climb the superb 'Yosemite Dihedral' to another good but small ledge.<br/>4) N7, 35m. Continue straight up a difficult finger-crack. Where it ends in the middle of a blank wall, climb horizontally left with difficulty (and poor protection) on small edges into another thin, vertical crack on the left. Belay just above on a small stance. Sensational moves that you don't want to fall off!<br/>5) N6, 30m. Jam the next finger-crack, then make unprotected moves up and left into yet another crack. Belay on a sloping ledge at the top of this.<br/>6) N5+, 20m. Climb the next finger-crack to its top, then make a traverse left across the face to a belay ledge on the left side of the 'Potato Chip' - a huge detached flake and wide crack, clearly visible from the road - the end of Heaven!<br/>7) N5+, 50m. Traverse horizontally left (easy, spaced gear) until you can climb back right up a narrow grass ledge into the base of the upper corner - the start of Hell. Climb up angular black rock on good holds to a small grass ledge with tricky belays.<br/>8) N5, 35m. Continue up the same line on good holds up black rock to a flake on the right. Belay higher on the left at a block. There is some grass and moss on this pitch.<br/>9) N5, 35m. Climb a crack, traverse right across a thin flake, then move up and right to a stance at the base of the V-groove.<br/>10) N6, 50m. Climb easily up the V-groove (capped by a triangular roof), then make unprotected moves left into the 'Green Caterpillar' - a black basalt dike filled with a carpet of green moss. Unpleasant moves up this (5+ and usually wet) lead to a stance beside a large loose block. <br/>11) N5+, 50m. Step right and climb a groove to a white block on the right, which is climbed to easier moves up flakes and cracks leading to a good belay ledge.<br/>12) N5+, 35m. Head left onto the arete on clean rock, and finish up a crack to the top and redemption!
FA. Ed Webster, Odd-Roar Wiik 12.7.1993. The first complete ascent which they finished at 1:30 in the morning. Arild Meyer, Sjur Nesheim and Ulf Prytz made the first attempt on the general line in 7.1971. “... but luckily we got rained off before we got into trouble,” said Arild. Niels Poulsen and Jørgen Sundby added pitch 3 - the Yosemite Dihedral - in 1989.


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