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(The High Priest) An indifferent start leads to superb climbing on the black dyke that splits the sheets of white granite below the Big Roof. Start below the left-hand end of the Big Roof at the base of a crack system that runs up the face. The start is up an open groove 20m right of the tall right-facing corner that is the start of Korstorget.
1) 6-, 45m. Bridge the groove (hard at the start) and continue for 20m, then traverse awkwardly right across a short face and follow more cracks up leftwards to a high belay ledge.
2) 5, 42m. Follow a left-facing chimney, or the more solid and easier cracks to the left, then continue up cracks up to a small stance (awkward belays) below the wide basalt overhang. It is worth considering belaying a little lower down (no real stance) and using the higher gear as runners to protect the next section.
3) 6, 30m. Either climb directly through the overhang (bold though good holds soon arrive), or traverse left to a grass ledge (same grade - different style), then move back right into the basalt dike. Continue up this by lovely climbing to a good ledge.
4) 5-, 45m. Continue up the basalt ladder which gives steady climbing, with spaced protection, in an amazing setting, to a stance just below the big grass ledge of Storhylla.
5) 3-, 60m. Traverse right along Storhylla, (don't forget the protection) around a rib, then across a slab before descending to the fixed anchor at the top of the Vestpillaren Direct Start. Four abseils lead back to the ground.
FA. Bengt Flygel Nilsfors, Aart Verhage 5.1992
It's not Top50, its Top10. One of the greatest climbs I could imagine.
The crux and the basalt dike is in fact quiet good protected. No flattering heart. The climbing there is unique and not to miss. Best is, to continue like Klokkeren but then take the right crack and reach direct the belay from Vespillaren. Almost 60m, 5+ from the Storhylla. Continue with the Vespillaren and you will find an easy and fantastic variation.
Urs Odermatt - 14/Jul/14
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