The Codfather

3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
 7

Adjacent Routes
<< Biskopen < Søndagskole turen  |  Reisen > Klokkeren >>


An excellent intricate route with some exciting moments. Carry a full rack including plenty of micro wires. Start in the vegetated bay between Ypperstepresten and Reisen. <br/>1) N5, 40m. Climb easy slabs to the back of the bay then follow cracks leading towards the overlap to belay on a small ledge.<br/>2) N6-, 25m. Climb to the overlap, pull through then move right and continue up cracks to a belay where they end.<br/>3) N7, 50m. Climb to, and past, the left-hand side of the overlap and up to a basalt dyke (shared with Biskopen). Move right for 5m to below the next crack-line, which is reached from the right by poorly-protected climbing. Belay 3m higher.<br/>2a) and 3a) A video of the first ascent shows the climbers following pitch 2 of Søndagskole turen instead of the line described above. It then continues direct to the horizontal traverse below the roof. The first ascensionists are unable to confirm which line they climbed.<br/>4) N7, 50m. Continue up the crack to its end, then make a difficult move right across the orange streak into the next crackline. Climb this up and right to the angle under the Big Roof.<br/>5) N6+, 50m. Climb up then out right to a smooth groove. Head up and left, passing a large detached flake. Continue above this to a crack-line leading rightwards across the slab to a stance on the left of the huge block on Storhylla.<br/>6) N6, 55m. Climb the groove then move left and pull over the left edge of the overlap. Follow the crack to ledges below the prominent right-curving groove on the right side of the pillar.<br/>7) N5-, 30m. Climb the groove to the point where it starts to lean to the right and becomes smooth - belay here.<br/>8) N6, 35m. Continue up the groove until directly below a vegetated ledge, then cross the overhangs to reach it - there is some doubt about exactly where the route breaches the roof.<br/>9) N6, 50m. Climb up and right to gain the grooves to the right of Vestpillaren Direct's 'Slanting Corner' and follow these (past a ledge leading across to Vestpillaren Direct), continuing for another 10m until a move left reaches the stance at the end of Vestpillaren Direct pitch 9.<br/>10) N6, 55m. Follow Vestpillaren Direct past the hollow flake, then continue rightwards up slabs and grooves to cross the top of the black dyke. Climb slabs and grooves until the peg on Vestpillaren Direct pitch 11 can be reached. Climb to the Vestpillaren Direct belay.<br/>11) N3, 55m. Finish up the gully as for Vestpillaren Direct.
FA. Mark Garthwaite, Mick Fowler 5.7.1999. A couple of prolific days for Mark and Mick who also completed the first ascent of Wee Beastie on Myggapillaren the previous day.

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