3 Stars

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(The Journey) A tremendous climb on perfect rock up Presten's imposing central section. The route offers technical climbing on superb rock, but is poorly protected in several places - a UK grade of 'solid E4' has been suggested. A double rack of cams (micro to large) is recommended, plus a double rack and full range of wires. Begin a few metres to the right of the open groove of Ypperstepresten.<br/>1) N5, 20m. Climb up a corner, over a roof, and up to a belay.<br/>2) N5+, 50m. Head up and right following a curving finger-crack (the higher of a pair of near-parallel cracks) to a belay below the tall corner.<br/>3) N6+, 30m. Climb up the corner to an awkward layback/chimney slot and belay halfway up the slot. Or continue to a fixed belay at 52m.<br/>4) N6+, 55m. Chimney up the slot for 10m more, then make a serious traverse left for 20m before climbing up 20m to a belay just above the left end of the Big Roof. <br/>5) N7+, 30m. Climb the groove until it is possible to traverse right 2m to some holds leading up to a block in the roof. Now traverse right, out along the block, on better holds (bold), before climbing up to Storhylla - the big grassy ledge.<br/>6) N6+, 40m. Head up and right on easy ground, then back left across a slab to a stance under a short, right-facing corner.<br/>7) N6, 50m. Traverse left on big flakes to the left side of an arch (serious), then climb a crack to a stance below a finger-crack.<br/>8) N6+, 55m. Jam up the finger-crack to reach a long groove which gives great climbing eventually reaching a belay.<br/>9) N5+, 40m. Continue up the groove for 15m until it ends, then climb cracks to a stance below a right-facing corner - the Direkte-Utsteget of Vestpillaren Direct.<br/>10) N7, 40m. Climb the sustained groove - a great pitch.<br/>11) N7-, 30m. Continue up the corner past a hard bulge, then head up easier ground to the top.
FA. Tom Cosgriff, Sjur Nesheim 9.7.1993. The first ascent took 11 hours and was done with all nut protection.


I found the route finding a bit difficult on pitch 7. It is not possible to see the "arch" from the first section of the pitch, and the diagonal climbing is more like a traverse on big flakes. The lower part of the crack on pitch 8 was very vegetated summer 07. The route is magnificent, though...
Gustaf Leijonhufvud - 24/Apr/08

Only did the pitches up to Storhylla, before the rain came in. Found the 4. pitch more like 5+ and the 5. more like 7-(in my case I seconded this pitch), but both very runout. The climbing on pitch 3 is as good as it gets...
Sten Stenkjaer - 02/May/08

I agree with these comments. Here's some more: Rather than belaying in the chimney on pitch 3, continue to the top of it to a fixed nut belay, some 51 meters. On pitch 6 we climbed further right than the line drawn in th topo and belayed in a dihedral, about grade 5. The end of pitch 9 is around grade 6 for the last part.
Magnus - 13/Aug/08

Like many other we were quite lost on pitch 7 (and possible on pitch 6 too). We went up flakes above a short dihedral and placed high pro before down-climbing to a short traverse over to a big grove leading up to the arch. Difficult to find but not particularly serious. Matches the line drawn in the topo quite well. Judging from the description in Webster's guidebook the FA team climbed a completely different pitch...
Jonas Wiklund - 29/Jul/09

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