Vestpillaren Top 50

3 Stars

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This was the original line on the face - an audacious undertaking envisioned and completed by Arild Meyer and Bynjar Tollefsen in the summer of 1978. The first ascent took 14 hours. These days it sees a lot less action than Vestpillaren Direct.<br/>Start up and right of the foot of the wall in the steep gully filled with grass and loose blocks. Climb this for 55m (either the grassy buttress or water-washed groove on the right - a rope is advisable). Belay where the angle eases.<br/>1) N4, 40m. Climb a short wall (loose) then traverse left for 20m across ledges and climb up towards the start of the huge left-facing groove. Belay on a ledge by some big flakes.<br/>2) N5, 40m. Follow the steep corner with a crack and several good rests to a belay on a small grass ledge.<br/>3) N5+ 35m. Continue up the groove to the roof and make a tricky traverse left, then climb straight up cracks to ledges level with Storhylla and a fixed belay. <br/>4) N4, 20m. Move right across the ledge, then climb cracks up the right side of the huge block to a belay on its top.<br/>5) N6-, 45m. Climb straight up thin cracks/grooves to a good ledge, then traverse 20m left (some rope drag and loose rock) to a belay on a higher ledge below a superb looking groove.<br/>6) N6, 45m. Difficult moves lead up the groove. Follow the flake until it becomes a thin crack, then step left into a parallel crack system. Climb up the sustained crack into a left-facing groove and take a semi-hanging belay above a bulge in the corner.<br/>7) N5+, 40m. Continue laybacking up the groove, then head right up an easier slabby groove and belay on either of two ledges at the base of the 'Slanting Corner'.<br/>8) N6-, 40m. Traverse left across a face for 5m, then move down and left under an overhang. Climb through this and follow cracks and flakes for 25m to a belay ledge.<br/>9) N4+, 45m. From the right end of the ledge. Follow the grooves and cracks rightwards up broken terrain to a ledge.<br/>10) N7, 35m. Traverse left to gain the large right-slanting groove. Climb the strenuous corner to a sloping stance.<br/>11) N7-, 35m. Continue to, and past, a bulge in the upper part of the groove, then climb thin cracks until it is possible to move left to the finish. Belay on a good ledge, then scramble up to the top.
FA. Arild Meyer and Brynjar Tollefsen 10.6.1978 (14 hours). The team carried their courage in their rucksack - pitons of all sizes, bongs and skyhooks. Meyer and Tollefsen swung leads, but high on the face, "we became very wet and cold." The upper section was climbed during a heavy rainstorm. "Shall we go down now?", asked Brynjar when the rain began. "Absolutely not!", replied Arild, typically determined to push on no matter what, and the pair succeeded. This ascent has normally been dated as the 18th June, though this appears to be an error.,FFA. Hans Christian Doseth, Håvard Nesheim (using the Original avslutning) 6.1979.


We did the Original start the next day after climbing Vestpilaren normal start (rappelled from Storhyllan). The original start felt both nicer and harder... But then again I prefer crack climbing although I'm not that good at it.
jukka leinonen - 06/Aug/11

I find it way easier then the direct start, but really good to climb. Best is doing both and climb the upper part twice. What a great route.
Urs Odermatt - 09/Jun/13

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