Himmelen kan vente
<< Vestpillaren original starten < Original avslutning | Variasjon til en variasjon > Klokkeren >>
(Heaven Can Wait) This brilliant route has some great climbing and a sensational finish high on the buttress. A large cam or two will come in useful.
1) 4+, 50m. As for pitch 1 of Original starten but move up to a left-trending groove. Follow this to a grassy ledge then move down left to belay at the foot of a wide crack.
2) 6+, 40m. Climb the crack - sustained - until it curves over and forms a flake. Either free climb the arete on the left, or the thin crack up and right at grade 7. Belay on the ledges just above.
3) 3+, 30m. Up easy ground to a belay at the foot of a groove.
4) 6-, 40m. Climb the right-leaning corner and the continuation crack to reach a small stance on the left.
5) 5-, 40m. Climb the big leaning corner on The Codfather almost to its end, then head out left to a belay.
6) 6+, 35m. Continue up the corner to the stance below the Slanting Corner on Vestpillaren.
7) 6+, 30m. Head out left onto the face and round the left end of the small roof/overlap and then further left to a right-leaning crack (almost reaching the line of Vestpillaren original finish)
8) 6+, 35m. Climb up and left into a long crack and follow this to a wild stance under the roof that caps the wall.
9) 6+, 25m. Traverse left under overhang, climb the corner, and then move out right under the overhang to a sudden ending.
FA. (Pitches 2 and 3) Helge Stokstad and Harald Henden climbed the initial crack system (plus the Slanting Groove pitch of the Vestpillaren) in 1982.
This route is well worth climbing. As good as "Vestpillaren" but with considerable less traffic. The line is a bit unclear at the start, but the wide crack (takes cam#4 and has a chock-stone somewhere in the middle) on the second pitch is clearly visible from below. Just head for this crack. Pitch 7 has good pro on the hard bit. The last two pitches are very nice: a good find!
Jonas Wiklund - 29/Jul/09
I agree - an excellent route!
- The righthand flake crack finish to pitch 2 goes free at about 6+ or 7- (a little committing).
- The "not obvious and poorly protected" pitch 7 (6+) can be circumnavigated by using pitch 9 of Originalavslutning, but note that it is probably a grade or two harder (6 or 6+) than the stated grade (6-), especially if you don't find the secret jug!
- Rope-drag can be a (big) problem on the last pitch.
Rick McGregor - 29/Jul/10
Excellent, but even in the update is not everything correct.
1) dont follow the Vestpillaren but climb direct straight up and then left. Easier and better then it looks.
2) Just make sure that you bring some small wires for the crux. Very good Pitch. With a 60m rope you can finish left to the bolted belay from Vespillaren.
4) Depending on how far right you go, you can reduce the difficutlties to 4+
5) One of the best pitches with an amazing stance.
6) Felt very easy for 6+. One Step, rather 6.
7) Dont whatch the line at the photo but just climb up and left, then its pretty obvious with very well protection if you climb up, place a high Zero3 or something very small an step back for the slopy traverse. Nice climbing.
8) Great Pitch, not to hard for the grade. Again just one step over a bulge with a thin crack.
9) Great but realy easy for the grad. Its better to split it in two pitches, otherwise the ropedrag could become horrible.
The route comes more and more popular, especialy the upper part after climbing the lower part of Korstoget.
Urs Odermatt - 23/Jul/13
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