Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 2
(Heaven Can Wait) This brilliant route has some great climbing and a sensational finish high on the buttress. A large cam or two will come in useful. Almost as good as Vestpillaren Direct but likely to be a lot quieter.<br/>1) N4+, 50m. As for pitch 1 of Vestpillaren, but move up to a left-trending groove. Follow this to a grassy ledge then move down left to belay at the foot of a wide crack.<br/>2) N6+, 40m. Climb the wide crack - sustained, big cams helpful - until it curves over and forms a flake. Either climb the arete on the left, or the tough thin crack up and right at grade 7. Belay on the ledges just above.<br/>3) N3+, 30m. Up easy ground to a belay at the foot of a groove.<br/>4) N6-, 40m. Climb the face right of a blank leaning corner and the continuation crack to the right to reach a stance on the left.<br/>5) N5-, 40m. Climb the big leaning corner (part of The Codfather) almost to its end, then head out left to a belay.<br/>6) N6+, 35m. Continue up the nice technical corner to the stance below the 'Slanting Corner' on Vestpillaren Direct.<br/>7) N6+, 45m. Move left into a groove, head up this then move left again. Continue leftwards past a second overlap to a right-leaning groove. Climb this to a stance on the left.<br/>8) N6+, 35m. Climb up and left into a long crack and follow this to a wild stance under the roof that caps the wall. <br/>9) N6+, 25m. Traverse left under overhang, climb the corner, and then move out right under the overhang to a sudden ending.<br/>7a) to 9a) There is variation to the left of the last two pitches that is said to be easier and more logical than the normal finish at around N6-/N6.
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This route is well worth climbing. As good as "Vestpillaren" but with considerable less traffic. The line is a bit unclear at the start, but the wide crack (takes cam#4 and has a chock-stone somewhere in the middle) on the second pitch is clearly visible from below. Just head for this crack. Pitch 7 has good pro on the hard bit. The last two pitches are very nice: a good find!
I agree - an excellent route!
Excellent, but even in the update is not everything correct.