Klokkeren

2 Stars
Loose
 7-

Adjacent Routes
<< The Codfather < Reisen  |  Vestpillaren Variation Start > Vestpillaren Direct >>


(The Bell Ringer) A decent set of pitches on the upper central portion of Presten, using a parallel crack/groove system just to the left of Vestpillaren Direct's upper section, rejoining it below the 'Slanting Corner'.<br/>1) to 4) N5+/N6, 145m. Climb the start of Vestpillaren Direct or use Vestpillaren for a bit of variety.<br/>5) N5-, 50m. Storhylla is split towards its right side by a slab. Climb up to the right side of the slab (passing left of an abseil anchor), then traverse left across the slab for 10m until you can climb up through blocks and grass to the base of a black section of rock slightly on the left. Climb up this and belay at the foot of a right-facing groove at the right margin of the large, smooth face.<br/>6) N6-, 35m. Excellent climbing up the groove above the belay for 10m, then face climb up and right into another, left-facing corner system. Belay on a small ledge on the right at a flake.<br/>7) N6-, 40m. Step back left into the corner, climb past some loose rock, then head over a bulge to enter the next groove (also left-facing). Climb this to two large stacked flakes and pass these carefully to a tiny ledge down on the left with a fixed belay.<br/>8) N7-, 24m. Follow a shallow corner up and right to a fingertip-crack. Thin moves and excellent climbing up to a short crack on the right (fixed piton) lead to the roof then move right to the stance on Vestpillaren Direct.<br/>9) to 12) N6, 160m. Finish up Vestpillaren Direct.
FA. Tommy Nilsson and partner (some aid on pitch 7) 1984 or 1985 ,FFA. Tim Hansen, Ingun Raastad Summer 1986

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