Gamle rev Top 50

3 Stars

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(Old Fox) The attractive twinned groove system in the centre of the face gives sustained and well-protected jamming and laybacking. Popular and worthwhile. Start below a black slab (sometimes wet) below the main corner.<br/>1) N6, 45m. Climb easily to the base of the groove, then layback and jam up the right-hand corner until a harder move leads up and left into easier cracks and a corner. Belay on the left.<br/>2) N6, 60m. Continue up a groove with an awkward hand-crack to a grassy ramp, then climb a short tricky crack on the right to another ledge. Finish up the unlikely looking thin finger-crack, splitting the steep wall above to jugs and an easy finish.<br/>2a) N7, 20m. Revungen (Fox Cub) Step right from the stance and climb the thin cracks right of the arete - tiny wires protect the run-out up the slab above - scary! Take a belay then add another pitch up the rest of Gamle Rev.
FA. Ed Webster, Thorbjørn Enevold 25.7.1993,FA. (Revungen) Asgeir Larsen, Jonatan Rask 6.2007


Easy for grade 6, only got one thin move and then it's all over, much easier than Vestpillaren and Solens Sonner for instance...
Chad Harrison - 12/Mar/08

Pretty steady bridgeing and not as tough as it looks. Only just E1, maybe HVS in UK money.
GrahamD - 12/Mar/08

Peak HVS & Pembroke E1?
Charles Moreton - 28/Jun/10

find the second pitch harder, or more delicate. But good climbing.
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12

Lofoten's finest E0? Great juggy climbing - lots of fun.
Andy Hobson - 13/Jul/12

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