Gollum Top 50

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Tromsø ekspressen < Lost Gandalf  |  Smeagul > Gandalf's kamin >>

An excellent and well-protected crack climb up the parallel crack system a few metres to the left of Gandalf. Thought by some to be better than its classy neighbour, offering more consistent climbing and no thrutchy wide bits.<br/>1) N5, 40m. From the tip of a block, jam up the fine crack - tricky - stepping left once, and continuing to a sloping stance.<br/>2) N5-, 40m. Continue up the same crack-line, passing a trickier section where the crack splits. Continue up thin cracks in the steeper wall above, on good holds, to a good sloping stance (shared with Tromsø ekspressen).<br/>3) N5-, 25m. Step right, then access the right-hand side of a prominent flake, but move right to easier cracks and the top.
FA. Arild Meyer, Sjur Nesheim 1985


Reminiscent of the very best of Chairladder VSs.
GrahamD - 12/Mar/08

Felt more like 5-,5-,5-, still a great route though.

Chris Craggs - 30/May/08

Thought 5 was fair enough for the first pitch.
Gets a lot less traffic then Gandalf just to the right - we saw 4 parties queued up on Gandalf whilst we had Gollum to ourselves!
Jonathan Morgan - 06/Jul/08

Maybe even better the Gandalf
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 12
    hard 5+ 0 of 6
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    3 Stars 4 of 6
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