Gandalf Top 50

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Smeagul < Gandalf's kamin  |  Guns 'n' Roses > Krympefesten >>

A Lofoten classic up the highest part of the cliff with three good pitches - interesting, varied and well protected. Start up the left-facing groove behind a tree and a large boulder at the right side of the face.<br/>1) N5, 40m. Climb the slippery groove and an awkward narrow chimney to reach and pass a small roof. Continue up the fine groove and then a slab to stance by a good crack. It is best to avoid belaying on the big loose blocks over to the right.<br/>2) N5-, 35m. Traverse 5m to the right then climb a juggy bulge and awkward groove just to the right. Continue a short way then cross the delicate slab leftwards until past the arete. Now climb good finger-cracks to belay in the prominent yellow niche of the 'Eagle's Nest'. Care needed with rope drag on this pitch.<br/>4) N5-, 25m. From the 'Eagle's Nest', step right around a small corner - exposed and delicate for a few moves - then follow an easier crack straight to the top.<br/>4a) N6+ 25m. The original and much harder finish goes straight through the lip of the 'Eagle's Nest' up via strenuous jamming.
FA. Arild Meyer, Kjell Ove Storvik, Brynjar Tollefsen 5.1978. Not by today's standard route. They climbed left around the pitch 2 overhang, then aid climbed straight through the crack above the Eagle's Nest ledge. Later parties added the now traditional second and third pitches and free climbed the Eagle's Nest finish.


Feels like a Lakeland or Welsh classic.
VS 4c,4b,4b.

Chris Craggs - 11/Mar/08

An excellent VS. Close your eyes and you could be at Bosigran ! Watch which way you go up the slab on pitch 1. It is easy to wander too far right if my memory serves.
GrahamD - 12/Mar/08

A great test of your jamming.
jon bursnall - 19/Mar/08

First pitch felt quite hard today - that's what you get for repeating routes!

Chris Craggs - 30/May/08

The original finish (straight up from the Eagle's Nest) is quite fun - probably only grade 6.
Rick McGregor - 25/May/09

nice and very easy
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12

The first pitch is quite polished. We went wrong on pitch 2, and ended up on Guns'n Roses. The next time I will read the guide book properly.
Frewl - 08/Dec/13

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 17
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