Guns 'n' Roses Top 50

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Gandalf's kamin < Gandalf  |  Krympefesten > Rolling Stone >>

A nice varied route - steep, satisfying, well protected and on excellent rock. The route sees plenty of action. There has been plenty of discussion about the star rating of this climb - you will have to do it so you can join in!<br/>1) N5, 40m. Start up a crack with a tree in it and climb straight through a small overhang, then up the arete on the right using a finger-crack. Belay on a ledge just below the Gandalf overhang. Many teams struggle up the grassy groove round to the right - this IS NOT the route, so get back on the proper line now! <br/>2) N6-, 25m. Climb the right-hand crack directly through the Gandalf overhang, then continue up the vertical jamming crack in the steep headwall above to a tiny stance.<br/>3) N6-, 35m. Continue up finger-cracks in orange rock keeping just right of the Eagle's Nest belay on Gandalf. Finish up a groove and hand-crack right of Gandalf's final section.
FA. Sjur and Håvard Nesheim climbed the vertical hand-crack on pitch 2 in 1979, calling it Kvite spøkesla (White Ghosts) because it was the first time they had ever used chalk. Odd-Roar Wiik and Gunnar Austrheim climbed all of pitches 2 and 3 in 1990, using a start up the crack system round to the right of pitch 1. The route as described was first climbed by Thorbjørn Enevold and Truls Seines in 6.1993.


Very short hard section on pitch 2, top pitch is easier and overall one of the easier 6- routes.
Chad Harrison - 12/Mar/08

A bit contrived and disjointed, I thought, to maintain the climbing on the most interesting rock. The moves up to and up the arete on pitch 1 are excellent, though. Easy HVS.
GrahamD - 12/Mar/08

Kind of agree with both comments. The moves on the arete are great, but a fierce bit of jamming at the top of pitch 2.
jon bursnall - 19/Mar/08

I thought it 'only' two stars, though Thorbjørn as absolutely adamant it is worth three!
Chris Craggs - 19/Mar/08

Dont go to far right in the first pitch, then its really good.
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12

it felt quiet polished already....
Urs Odermatt - 14/Jul/14

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 14
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    3 Stars 3 of 7
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