<< Gandalf < Guns 'n' Roses | Vår pump > Three Lions on the Shirt >>
(The Shrinking Party or 'Wetting the Baby's Head')
This combination of pitches has several hard sections of climbing. Rather lacking in line though with interesting moves. Start as for Guns 'n' Roses under the crack with a prominent tree. Carry a full range of cams.
1) 6, 40m. Climb up the first 5m of Guns 'n' Roses, step left, then climb a thin finger-crack following it through two overhangs to a belay on a ledge below the Gandalf overhang.
2) 6+, 25m. Traverse right under a white, A-shaped overhang, - hard to protect - then swing out right, climb up a crack, and traverse left to a position below the prominent vertical crack of Guns n' Roses. Hand traverse strenuously right along a horizontal crack then follow cracks to a ledge and belay.
3) 6-, 35m. Climb a short groove to join Guns 'n' Roses.
FA. Ed Webster, Johan Sandberg 5.7.1993. The hand-traverse pitch had been climbed before.