Silmarillion

3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
 7

Adjacent Routes
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The original route of the face. A fine long expedition forcing its way up the left-hand side of the face. Start at a prominent pillar that leads towards a chimney formed by a large flake and a groove to its right.<br/>1) N6, 50m. Climb the pillar and then the chimney above before moving right and climbing the crack to a stance. Belay (large cam) below the continuation crack.<br/>2) N5, 10m. Climb the crack then move left to a tree belay on the big ledge system. Move the belay rightwards to another tree.<br/>3) N7-, 25m. Follow the groove left then straight up (3 pegs) to a small ledge. Undercut right and belay on cams above a flake. <br/>4) N6+, 45m. Head up the curving orange groove, then continue direct (passing to the left of an abseil station) up the groove to a stance by the Big Roof.<br/>5) N7, 20m. Traverse right then make hard moves up the overhanging crack (big cams) before continuing more easily to a small stance. A spectacular and exposed pitch.<br/>6) N3, 15m. Straightforward slab climbing leads to a tree at the top of the crag.
FA. T.Sieger, F.Moell 4.7.1999. The ascent took 7 hours.

USER COMMENTS

The pegs on pitch 3 are all gone.
Jonas Wiklund - 29/Jul/09

Seems like the pegs have been replaced by one bolt. Pitch 3 felt like the crux. Excellent route. We abseiled from the fixed tat above the roof then bolt and pegs beside pitch 4 then a sling on a tree (no maillon or biner) straight up above pitch 2 (60m for this abseil to ground). Top out and walk off probably nicer ;-)
Derek Watson - 23/Aug/17

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