Set Trippin'


Adjacent Routes
<< Grus i øgat < Silmarillion  |  Daei! > The Pels of the Fisk >>

A rather arduous approach leads to fine and hard aid climbing on the central wall. It looks likely that the lower pitches could be free climbed but subsequent ascents have avoided these by heading up the gully on the right as for Daei! The route could really do with being pushed on upwards to tackle the upper overhangs. Start in the centre of the face, directly below the great block jutting out of the upper roofs and just right of a tree-filled groove.
1) 5 A2, 40m. Follow cracks and overlaps right then back left to reach the upper part of the tree-filled groove (plenty of grass). Now climb rightwards round the overhangs to a ledge and belay.
2) A1, 35m. Step left and climb the curving groove then trend right and climb cracks past the left-hand edge of the conspicuous wide roof. Continue up the easy grassy groove to a stance on the left-hand end of the huge ledge system.
3) A3, 40m. Step left past loose blocks and climb a thin crack to a short bolt ladder and on into the 'copper-head groove'. Above this, continue to a grassy niche then step left and climb cracks and a right-trending ramp (huge loose stuff to the left) to a double-bolt belay below the frowning overhangs. Abseil descent.
FA. F.Rapp (roped solo) 10.1999


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