Daei!

3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
 8+

Adjacent Routes
<< Silmarillion < Grisfesten  |  The Pels of the Fisk > Brysselsteget >>


A spectacular and hard outing that breaches the roofs on the upper right-hand side of the cliff by some wild climbing. Start at the base of the gully that defines the right-hand side of the cliff.<br/>1) N4+, 45m. Climb the clean white slabs left of the streaks into a corner and continue to a niche with a high peg belay.<br/>2) N3, 40m. Continue up the gully for 10m until a grassy ramp runs out to the left onto the crest of the buttress. Follow this up and down to a belay on spikes.<br/>3) N6-, 30m. Climb a series of flakes and cracks, with harder moves where it steepens, to reach a small stance and nut belays.<br/>4) N8-, 30m. Now the fun begins! Climb up to the roof and bridge past its narrowest point. Follow an undercut flake out left, passing a couple of grooves, to a point below the crack that splits the roof. Difficult moves up to the roof lead to a good hold out left, then hard pulls on thin flakes are needed to gain a belay in a crack above the overhang.<br/>5) N8+, 20m. Climb as far as a small side-pull, then continue up the desperate crack to a groove and head up this (the aid version was just to the right) to reach bolt belays in the roof above the ledge.
FA. Robin Thomas, Andrew Norton 18.7.2004 ,FFA. Andreas Klarstöm, Mats Mosti 24.7.2014

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