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(Moon Dance) Two less interesting pitches lead to a fine finish up the overhanging groove and exposed top slab. The route is generally well protected.
1) 6-, 30m. At the left-hand end of the lower cliff band, jam up a short steep crack to slab and then a grassy ledge. Continue up a V-groove to a small stance.
2) 5, 35m. Step left and climb a left-facing corner (some loose blocks) to reach easier climbing up columns to another small stance below the last pitch - a spectacular leaning groove.
3) 6+, 30m. Jam and bridge up the sensational, overhanging, groove corner (sustained) until it ends, then follow finger-cracks first to the left, then back right up the exposed slab and an easier finish on the right.
FA. Ed Webster, Odd-Roar Wiik 10.7.1993
Hard one to award stars too as the the first two pitches are terrible but the top one is amazing! Maybe ab in and just do the classic top one - lovely steep groove and slab action in an exposed position. E3 5c
Chad Harrison - 12/Mar/08
The 3rd pitch has an exciting slabclimbing finish if you go straight up! Probably a bit much to call this Top 50 - the top pitch is excellent and there a good sections on pitches 1 and 2, but overall there are plenty of better routes in the area.
Rick McGregor - 25/May/09
We thought the second pitch was excellent and about as hard as the first one.
jukka leinonen - 06/Aug/11
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