Gaukerisset Top 50

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Studenten < Måken Sven  |  Skomaker Grus > Ole Johnny tribute >>

(Cuckoo Crack) A fine crack high on the side-wall. An easy approach pitch gets you into the gully and up to its base.<br/>1) N3+, 30m. As for Måken Sven. A straightforward pitch up the gully, or the rock to its right, to a belay underneath the crack.<br/>2) N6-, 45m. The easy initial crack leads to crux moves right and up to gain the main crack-line. Climb this by fine sustained moves as it slices up the steep smooth wall. Excellent climbing.
FA. Odd-Road Wiik, Thorbjørn Enevold 6.1993. On the first ascent, Odd-Roar promised to belay part-way up the crack, but it was so good that he led it all in one go, with a cuckoo singing in the background.


Absolutely brilliant but nearer 5+ than 6.
Chris Craggs - 08/Jun/08

One of the best pitches we did. The start is a bit of a scramble, although the rock is good. The crack itself is actually a big flake and it looks about E4 from below. In the end it is just 5 Right Unconquerables on top of each other (although not as hard as RU).
Alan James - 27/Jun/08

Maybe the best single pitch hereabouts. Superb athletic climbing. As of July 2011 there is some tat on an in-situ nut 15m up the first pitch which is causing confusion about where the second abseil goes from - look for the shiny bolts 5m above !
Richard Gaches - 25/Jul/11

In my opinion, the abseil anchor is not where its showed in the guidebook. From the exit, just traverse about 25m to the right. Abseiling on a tree.
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12

Tremendous second pitch, one of the best we did on the trip. Much easier than it looks (mostly 4b/c) but the traverse to reach it felt tricky - probably worth 6- for this bit. Abseil is off a tree to the right (looking up).
Andy Hobson - 11/Jul/12

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