Gaukerisset Top 50

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Studenten < Måken Sven  |  Skomaker Grus > Fisherman's Friend >>

(Cuckoo Crack) A fine crack high on the sidewall. An easy approach pitch gets you into the gully and up to its base.
1) 3+, 30m. As for Måken Sven. A straightforward pitch up the gully, or the rock to its right, to a belay underneath the crack.
2) 6-, 45m. The easy initial crack leads to tricky moves right and up to gain the main crackline. Climb this by fine sustained moves as it slices up the steep smooth wall. Excellent climbing.
FA. Odd-Road Wiik, Thorbjørn Enevold 6.1993. On the first ascent, Odd-Roar promised to belay part-way up the crack, but it was so good that he led it all, with a cuckoo singing in the background.


Absolutely brilliant but nearer 5+ than 6.
Chris Craggs - 08/Jun/08

One of the best pitches we did. The start is a bit of a scramble, although the rock is good. The crack itself is actually a big flake and it looks about E4 from below. In the end it is just 5 Right Unconquerables on top of each other (although not as hard as RU).
Alan James - 27/Jun/08

Maybe the best single pitch hereabouts. Superb athletic climbing. As of July 2011 there is some tat on an in-situ nut 15m up the first pitch which is causing confusion about where the second abseil goes from - look for the shiny bolts 5m above !
Richard Gaches - 25/Jul/11

In my opinion, the abseil anchor is not where its showed in the guidebook. From the exit, just traverse about 25m to the right. Abseiling on a tree.
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12

Tremendous second pitch, one of the best we did on the trip. Much easier than it looks (mostly 4b/c) but the traverse to reach it felt tricky - probably worth 6- for this bit. Abseil is off a tree to the right (looking up).
Andy Hobson - 11/Jul/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 10
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