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3 Stars

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(The Puffin Club) A great (and very popular) classic with varied and sustained climbing up the striking right-facing corner and cracks above 'The Island'.<br/>1) N6-, 35m. Climb an easy groove, then step right onto a tricky blunt arete. Move right again into a big right-facing corner which is climbed to a good ledge. The crack contains hidden delights.<br/>2) N6, 35m. Follow the steep corner above, passing the bulge, and continue up a crack until it fades. Move right into another crack which leads to a ledge. Traverse 3m left and climb an easier crack to a large sloping ledge. <br/>3) N5+, 20m. Move up and left to another ledge, then finish up the zig-zag cracks in the steep slab. Time for the photo!
FA. Arild Meyer - The Old Puffin, Thorbjørn Enevold - The Young Puffin 5.1992


Classic route, first one I did in Lofoten and very impressed - prefect rock and a sensational second pitch. Overall pretty reasonable for grade 6 and tons of gear. Few different variations after the roof, all pretty fun.
Chad Harrison - 12/Mar/08

About E1 5b I reckon, with some stunning scenery and lovely rock. The crux crack is prone to some seepage, More of a slog to get to than it appears from the road !
GrahamD - 12/Mar/08

Awesome climbing, the second pitch looks harder than it is, but I guess E1 5B is fair. Look out for the surprise, if it is still there and don't forget to immitate the guidebook photo.
jon bursnall - 19/Mar/08

very nice, but not so exciting is other climbs around
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

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