Wee Beastie

2 Stars
Fluttery
 6

Adjacent Routes
<< None < None  |  Mygga > The Midnight Butterfly >>


A line near the left-hand edge of the buttress climbs it in four long pitches. Start 50m up the slope to the left of the groove of Mygga. There is some very bold slab climbing early on and good cracks higher up. May not have been repeated.<br/>1) N4, 50m. Pad up the slabs until they steepen, to eventually reach a belay on the left at a small tree.<br/>2) N6-, 55m. Climb up the buttress, then go round the right side of the ear-shaped feature that dominates the left-hand side of the buttress. Belay on small ledges above the ear.<br/>3) N6, 25m. The thin crack above gives excellent climbing.<br/>4) N4+, 30m. Move up and leftwards to a well-positioned jamming crack in the arete overlooking the gully. Finish up this.
FA. Mark Garthwaite, Mick Fowler 4.7.1999

USER COMMENTS

The first pitch is harder than grade 4. It even has a bolt in middle of totally blank section of rock. Other than the bolt the protection of the first pitch is far from optimal quality (short, shallow, flaring cracks every now and then). We put up a belay next to a bush and then headed straight upwards towards another bolt in the middle of (yet again) blank section of rock.
jukka leinonen - 23/May/12

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