Storm Pillar

3 Stars
 7+ A3

Adjacent Routes
<< Mygga < The Midnight Butterfly  |  Freya > The Corner Kick >>

An almost free ascent of the left-hand side of the face on great rock. Pitch 12 may go free at around 7c+ with pre-placed gear. Take a set and a half of cams, a full set of nuts and micro-wires, lost arrow and knife-blades plus hooks. The first ascent team thought it would make an awesome candidate for a one-day ascent but portaledges will probably be needed by most teams. Start to the right of the fall-line from the pillar where a white left-trending and left-facing groove offers a way to outflank the huge black overhangs directly under the pillar.<br/>1) N6-, 50m. Climb leftwards up the groove to a belay.<br/>2) N7-, 40m. Continue left with hard moves through the roofs.<br/>3) N7, 25m. Head left (bolt) past the base of the long flake/groove system of Freya to a stance beyond it.<br/>4) N6-, 30m. Move left and climb a groove to ledges.<br/>5) N6+, 40m. Trend left across the slabs to a stance under the big diagonal overhang - serious.<br/>6) N7, 30m Trend up and right over slabs to a stance. <br/>7) N6+, 60m. Break through the overhangs and continue to a stance in the grass fields above.<br/>8) N6-, 45m. Continue up the rocky buttress to the First Bivvy.<br/>9) N7, 55m. Cross the gully then climb the steep groove to the base of the soaring corner above.<br/>10) N7+, 55m. The fantastic overhanging corner is a great pitch.<br/>11) N7, 50m. Continue up the black corner to the Second Bivvy on a stance at the base of a steep crack.<br/>12) A3, 55m. Aid climb the steep crack in the smooth steep wall, with some hard free moves in the middle of the pitch.<br/>13) N6+/A1, 35m. Climb over a roof and continue to a stance below the 'Fab Flake'.<br/>14) N6+, 50m. The Fab Flake is followed out right then back left to a stance in the base of a long groove.<br/>15) N6+, 45m. The groove leads to the base of a huge square block perched on the wall.<br/>16) N6+, 30m. The 'Tunnel Pitch' heads behind the huge block. The top of this was the Third Bivvy.<br/>17) N6-/A2, 55m. Aid a crack then climb to a stance at a block.<br/>18) N6, 60m. Climb right then left past a roof, then move back right and climb to where Storpillaren comes in from the right.<br/>Descent - Follow Storpillaren to the summit, or abseil.
FA. Mike 'Twid' Turner, Louise Turner 9.2003


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