3 Stars
 8 A3

Adjacent Routes
<< Mygga < Storm Pillar  |  The Corner Kick > Storpillaren >>

A major undertaking up the central groove system on the pillar. The first ascent - which was filmed - took five days. The climbing is mainly free with bold climbing on the lower walls and some super-sustained cracks in the big groove. There are also three pitches of aid which requite a lot of small gear. Portaledges may be needed, the only decent bivi-ledges are above pitches 7 and 21. Apart from the belay bolts (which provide a viable escape route) the climb has minimal fixed gear - a peg on pitch two and a bolt on pitch three.
1) 6-, 50m. Climb leftwards to a belay.
2) 7-, 40m. Continue left with hard moves over an overhang.
3) 7, 45m. Head left (bolt) to the base of the long flake/groove system and belay a short way up it.
4) 7-, 45m. Climb the groove past some loose blocks.
5) 7-, 35m. Continue up the groove.
6) 6+, 40m. More groove and flake climbing with an excursion out left at about one third height. Bolt belays.
7) 4, 40m. Easier ground leads to a block belay and the site of the First Bivi.
8) 2, 60m. Head left to gain the big grassy ramp then climb this to a belay.
9) 4+, 65m. Continue to bolt belays at the top of the ramp.
10) 6-, 30m. Climb past the right-hand side of a roof and up a crack to a good stance. Bolt belays.
11) 6-, 30m. Slabby rock leads to a stance at the base of the Y fork in the road.
12) 6+, 25m. Follow crack and slabs leftwards to a stance at the base of the huge groove system - bolt belays.
13) 7-, 30m. Climb the left wall of the groove, past loose blocks, until it is possible to get back right into the groove. The right-hand side of a small overhang leads to a good small stance - the Second Bivi-site and base-camp for the battle to come.
14) 8, 25m. Desperate climbing up the groove.
15) 8-, 20m. More of the same.
16) 8, 30m. ... and yet more, following the undercut flake system up and right to a bolted stance just left of the arete.
17) A3, 35m. Move round the arete and climb the thin crack that splits the 'mirror' slab, to a hanging stance.
18) A3, 20m. More aid climbing on up the thin crack to a ledge.
19) ?, 30m. Cracks lead to a bolted belay - no grade given.
20) 7-, 25m. Climb past the side of the huge roof, and the right-hand side of the next one with difficulty, then follow an easier crack to a double-bolt belay on a huge ledge system.
21) -, 20m. Traverse left along the break to a great stance in an overhung niche - the perfect bivi-spot.
22) 6 A2, 25m. Climb the back of the niche then exit left and climb the crack before pegging the left-curving crack to a double-bolt stance back on the right.
23) 6-, 60m. Climb leftwards over loose rock then climb a huge groove, exit left to its top. Continue to a stance on the shoulder.
24) 6, 60m. This is pitch 18 of Storm Pillar. Climb right then left, past a roof, then move back right and climb to the point where pitch 9 of Storpillaren comes in from the right.
From here either follow Storpillaren to the Summit, or descend by abseil.
FA. Robert Jasper, Daniela Jasper 7.1998


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