Genus Locy

2 Stars
 6+ A2

Adjacent Routes
<< The Corner Kick < Storpillaren  |  Søring variant > Nordryggen >>

If you get stuck in a queue on Storpillaren, or have already done it half-a-dozen times and fancy a change, here is one idea. It is a little devious in the lower part, but there is a lot of good climbing on the route and some long pitches. Bring plenty of gear, from micro wires up to big cams.
1) 5, 45m. As for pitch 1 of Storpillaren - climb up the right-facing corner, then a slab to a belay on the right of a huge block.
2) 6+ A0, 50m. From the block, traverse left until it is possible to move down and round into the long crack system that falls from the chimney left of Storpillaren's third pitch. Climb the crack (thin) with a little aid, to a stance with fixed gear at the base of the chimney.
3) -, 45m. Abseil down the ramp to a stance at its foot.
4) 6+ A0, 58m. A rope-stretching pitch up the crack and into the huge groove. This requires some big cams and little aid around three-quarters height. Belay in the chimney above. Plenty of size 1 and 2 cams were used.
5) 3, 15m. Easy climbing up the chimney to Storhylla.
6) A2, 55m. Climb the main corner (Storpillaren's original line) but transfer into the long groove on the left. Climb this - thin at mid height where a good number of micro wires will be needed - then proceed on easier aid to a poor stance.
7) A2, 50m. Continue up the groove (nowhere else to go!) past a hollow block, to reach a stance between the roofs - a heap of wires required, all sizes up to 8. Freya comes up from the left to reach this same stance.
8) 6-, 55m. Move right and climb the groove to the break, then move right again and join Storpillaren on pitch 8. Continue up this - bold and not obvious. The pitch can be split in the niche on the right if required.
9) - 16) 6, 350m. Finish up Storpillaren.
FA. Martin Jakobsson, Fredrik Rapp 2.7.2003. Pitches 3,4 and 5 were done by Arild Meyer and Nils Paulsen "a long time ago" in a free attempt on Storpillaren.


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