Genus Locy

3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
 9

Adjacent Routes
<< Freya < The Corner Kick  |  Storpillaren > Søring variant >>


Another route that has been free climbed to give a tough challenge up a magnificent and intimidating line. Pitch 3 is probably the hardest pitch in the whole area. Bring plenty of gear, from micro wires to big cams. Originally there was a convoluted approach via Storpillaren, but a more direct version has been found. From the ledges below Storpillaren descend leftwards to belay down and right of a black cave. <br/><br/>1) N6-, 45m. Traverse left then climb the slabby wall to a stance on the ramp that runs right up towards Storpillaren.<br/>2) N6+, 70m. Climb the crack and head into the huge groove. This pitch requires plenty of cams including some big ones. Continue up the chimney to a big ledge.<br/>3) N9, 30m. The 'Changing Corners' pitch into 'The Book of Hate'. Climb the main corner (Storpillaren's original line) but transfer into the long groove on the left. Climb this - thin at mid-height where a double set number of micro wires will be needed - to a poor stance.<br/>4) N7+, 30m. Continue up the groove (nowhere else to go!) past a hollow block to reach a stance - lots of wires required, all sizes.<br/>5) N8+, 50m. 'The Enduro Corner'. Climb the groove to the roofs, pass these left then right to reach the break and a belay.<br/>6) to 12) N6-, 350m. Move right to finish up Storpillaren.
FA. Martin Jakobsson, Fredrik Rapp 2.7.2003. Pitches 3, 4 and 5 were done by Arild Meyer and Nils Paulsen "a long time ago" in a free attempt on Storpillaren.,FFA. Martin Skaar Olslund 7.2015. Torbjørn Solheim cleaned the route on jumar.

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