A Wee Nip
<< None < Sweet Home Moravia | Återstilleren > Turborg Classic >>
A short route that nips up the smaller buttress on the left-hand side of the main section of the cliff. Start under corners that lead towards the prominent crack of the second pitch, which is up the left wall of a deep corner complete with a conspicuous black streak.
1) 7, 25m. Scramble up the right-hand side of the slabby toe of the buttress until a flake (gear) to the left can be reached. Make very thin moves left to a good hold then follow easier cracks to a stance in the base of the groove.
2) 6+, 15m. The strenuous jamming crack in the left wall of the groove gives good climbing.
3) 5+, 25m. Climb towards the overhang then move out right onto the well-positioned arete. Finish up the cracks.
Descent - Abseil from the tree to the ground (2 x 60m ropes).
FA. Jonathan Bertalot, Jim Church 10.7.2002