<< Turborg Classic < Famous Grouse | Sex on the Beach > Gin Fizz >>
Satisfying and popular with a variety of fine slab and groove climbing. Interestingly, the line in the old guide was slightly in the wrong place though folks seemed to manage anyway. Protection is sometimes sparse and route finding is not always easy until all of the initial overlaps have been bypassed on the left. Fine situations with sustained and enjoyable climbing and almost no loose rock or grass! The route stays wet early in the season. Start under a pair of converging flake/grooves.
1) 5, 60m. There are two narrow grooves at the start. From a block, traverse right then climb the right-hand groove to a small ledge and possible stance. Continue to the top of the same groove and belay on the left on a large grass ledge.
1a) 5, 50m. The left-hand lower groove, and the right-hand upper groove, offer a slightly easier variation.
2) 5+, 45m. Trend right up corners and flakes, avoiding any temptation to traverse too far right under the overlaps. Step out left to a thin flake on a smooth face, then continue up right and then back left to a comfortable stance in a right-slanting corner.
3) 20m. Walk right across a wide sloping ledge
4) 5, 30m. Move up, traverse back left to join Famous Grouse, and follow this up the groove to a ledge and belay on the right.
5) 3, 25m. Climb easily rightwards up cracks in the slab to a stance on top of a big block.
6) 5+, 40m. Climb rightwards to a ledge then move left and climb the tricky crack, then the groove on the left, to another good ledge on the left below the final big groove. The groove left of the crack is an easier variation (5) if needed.
7) 5+, 35m. Layback and jam the huge upper corner system to its top - a good pitch.
8) 2, 20m. Finish up the grassy corner on the left to the summit.
FA. Arild Meyer, Finn Tore Bjørnstad, Hans Bjørnstad 8.1977. Finn Tore was singing a line from a popular political song called 'Rom and Cola', by the Swedish rock group, Norrbottens Järn, which went something like, "We're drinking rum and cola, laying in the sun, with no worries about tomorrow." The singing stopped when the heavy rain started, on the last pitch.
In my opinion one of the best climbs on the Lofoten. The first pitch is a bit nasty when wet, but at least the left Variation is ok with good protection.
Pitch 2, I climbed direct without the very long right traverse. Maybe harder (6?) but a solid Friend protects.
The rest is good climbing on solid rock.
The descent in the guidebook is completely wrong. We abseiled the grass gully just left of the wall and finally over Aterstilleren. No way to downclimb this with only 1 rappel as in the description.
The route is fantastic, but more demanding then other climbs in this grade.
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12
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