Ormen Lange

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Puffrisset < Shivering Dick  |  Disco Volante > Von viel Hilft viel >>

(A Viking Longship) Originally an aid climb, this is now a high quality hard free route heading for the large orange patch near the cliff's centre before trending left. Bring plenty of small cams. The belay bolts may be in a poor state.<br/>1) N7-, 30m. Climb the crack in the prominent right-facing corner past an old bolt, then move left through the roof. From the ledge above the roof, go right and follow a good crack to a double-bolt belay. Sustained and technical.<br/>2) N7+, 15m. Traverse left then climb the crack which takes you to a prominent steep groove. Bolt belay at a sloping ledge.<br/>3) N7-, 15m. Continue up a small groove, then up cracks for 15m to reach a belay bolt.
FA. Odd-Roar Wiik, Niels Poulsen, Anders Jacobsson 4.1993,FFA. Gustaf Leijonhuvud, Joachim Vagner 15.8.2003


With a 70 m rope it is possible to rap to the ground from the bolted belay at the end of the first pitch.
Jonas Wiklund - 22/Jul/08

Oh and by the way, this is a really good route but very hard for the grade.
Jonas Wiklund - 26/Jul/10

You can get down from the belay above the roof at the end of the first pitch with a 60 m rope. The bolts are old (presumably date from the 1st aid ascent in 1993) and are at present backed up with a fixed wire. Be prepared to leave something if the wire is gone or has deteriorated. Felt 7- was fair for the first pitch - well-protected, excellent climbing.
Rick McGregor - 09/Aug/12

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 2
    hard 8- 0 of 1
    8- 0 of 1
    easy 8- 1 of 1
    hard 7+ 0 of 1
    7+ 0 of 1
    easy 7+ 0 of 1
    hard0 of 1
    0 of 1
    easy0 of 1
    3 Stars 1 of 1
    2 Stars 0 of 1
    1 Star 0 of 1
    0 Stars 0 of 1
    Bag of ..... 0 of 1

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.