Puffrisset Top 50

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< None < Left-hand Crack  |  Shivering Dick > Ormen Lange >>

(The Puff Crack) The right-hand crack is excellent. Where the crack runs out, the route continues up the bold protectionless slabs above. The old grade for the crux pitch of N5+ gave a few folks a moment or two of self doubt. Start as for the previous route in a vegetated bay below and left of the cracks (which can't be seen), with a flake-crack on its right-hand side. <br/><br/>1) N5, 25m. Climb up left then right on grass ledges to the flake. Move right and continue up more flakes and cracks to an awkward stance at the foot of the main crack or continue.<br/>2) N5+, 30m. Continue up the finger-jamming crack that splits the clean white slab to a ramp at the top of the crack and a small stance. A superb, sustained and well-protected pitch.<br/>3) N6, 30m. Traverse right, across ledges, and up a flake to below a slab. Climb up then move right to gain a spike runner (last gear). Move back left and trend left towards the top of the brown streak. A bold pitch which is especially worrying early in the season when it can be dirty/gritty. There is an easier but equally bold variation up the right arete. <br/>4) N5-, 20m. Climb a short ramp then move out left to gain the final crack. Climb this, which eventually becomes vegetated towards the top.
FA. Bjørn Braathen and partner climbed the main finger-crack 6.1981. Anders Bergwall, Mark Diggins, Johan Arnegård, Dick Johansson, Anders Swensson, Stefan Palm made the first complete ascent of the route during a guide assessment for the Swedish Mountain Guides Organization, 8.1992


The route can still be enjoyed at HVS by abbing off at the end of the classic crack pitch from an insitu ab point at the stance. The 3rd pitch is probably E2 5b when clean and the top pitch VS 4c when clean. The summit is a beautiful spot and the descent staightforward.
Alan James - 20/Jun/08

The crag obviously takes a lot a drainage in the winter so it may be a early season problem.

Chris Craggs - 26/Jun/08

Pitch 3 is quite serious, some tiny nuts and mini cams do help though. Still a good route even if it's not 3 stars IMHO...
Odd-Roar Wiik - 01/Jul/08

Just above the slinged flake I placed two decent micro nuts, these placements together would surely hold a fall. 10 meters above that I placed a good blue and a good yellow master cam in a tiny overlap... This made the pitch exciting but not super scary....:-)
Odd-Roar Wiik - 17/Jul/08

Chris, you've written enough guidebooks and climbed enough routes to realise that the route is not e2 5a. The crux, second pitch, is 5a but very well protected. The third pitch is only 4c and with spaced good gear, the spike would hold a fall. The overall grade is hvs 5a. A route like mousetrap is given e2 5b and is unprotected. Puffrisset is protected enough no not warrent an e grade

andrew - 08/Aug/09

Funnily enough we thought it HVS 5a, Alan and Mark did it at the start of last season and had a bit tough time on it - it was very dirty.

Chris Craggs - 08/Aug/09

If you could retract your original comment then about it being e2 5b it would be good. People who can climb at this grade will prob be put off by it. It'll be a shame for them to miss out on it. There is also tat at the top so ppl can ab off after p2

andrew - 11/Aug/09

The Top 50 tag may be a bit generous - ** is nearer the mark. A UK Grade of E1 5a says enough when not in prime condition!
Chris Craggs - 11/Aug/09

It was Alan and Mark who thought it E2 5b, I said E1 5a when dirty and HVS 5a when clean. The votes are for 6- which is probably harder then HVS anyway so who knows?

Chris Craggs - 11/Aug/09

Pitch 3 is bold, but not very hard, as we climbed it in the rain! I read the bit about the micro nuts and cam in the overlap in advance. Hmmmm...aside from the sling on the flake, I found no additional pro.
Jim - 17/Jul/10

I've climbed it twice and haven't really bothered to do the 3rd and 4th pitch on either occasion. I just have rappelled down from the mid-point. I have heard from several climbers that the first two pitches are "the meat and potatoes of the route". Up to there the route is excellent. So I would appreciate if the gear at the second stance would be let intact, please. They are meant for rappelling.
jukka leinonen - 31/Aug/10

No fixed gear at the top of P2 (Jul 11). We looked for the abseil point at the top of Left-hand Crack but no fixed gear there either.
Catherine Nelson - 17/Jul/11

There is no fix gear at the moment, and I hope it stays like this. To climb the crack without the last pitch is nonsense.
Pitch 3 is exciting but not really bold, as the placement by the overlap is really obvoius and I think its would hold a fall. But who ever has seen a fall in a 5a pitch?
Urs Odermatt - 29/May/12

Some bollox being spouted above by several people - the third pitch quite clearly isn't 4c - even if it were clean it would be hard 5a and in its normal (as far as I could tell anyway - the fixed gear at the top of the second pitch and the lichenous/gritty rock suggests that most folk ab off) state feels like 5b - with the potential nasty fall into the ledge, it's worth E2 but would be E1 if clean.

Comparisons with Mousetrap (which is quite well protected even if the rock is a bit unconventional) are pretty funny - if that's the best comparison you can draw, then maybe you need to do some more climbing before you pass comment on the grade!
Andy Hobson - 11/Jul/12

The advice above regarding pitch 3, saying head left from the spike runner is wrong (or, at least, no-one goes that way, as shown by the amount of moss on the top-out). From the spike runner head directly upwards near the right edge of the slab, topping out past a micro cam in a flake. This was clean and well-travelled when we did it, and doing this makes a much more balanced route at about E1 overall. Pitch grades: (1) VS 4c, (2) HVS 5a/5b, (3) HVS/E1 4c/5a, (4) HS 4b. Or in Norwegian (guessing): 5, 5+, 5+, 5-. Three stars -- pitch 2 is excellent and worth 3 stars alone; pitch 3 is a nice contrast and good (done as just described). The walk-off is easy.
Coel Hellier - 31/Jul/12

For those who want to do the top pitch (a very enjoyable grade 5- crack) without tackling the dangerous slab pitch (with its risk of a ledge fall), I have added Puffrisset Eliminate from the top of the 2nd pitch. Grade 5, it goes straight up the at present rather vegetated corner above the belay, with spaced but good protection and slab moves right of the corner before moving onto the left arete near the top. Belay on the tree below the top pitch of Puffrisset. Cleaned in the summer of 2009, FA (?): Rick McGregor, Ursila Hufva, 6 August 2012.
Rick McGregor - 09/Aug/12

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  • Route Grade Votings

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