Odins bue Top 50

3 Stars

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(Odin's Bow) One of Lofoten's most sought-after hard climbs, ascending the large, left-facing arch on the cliff's left-hand side. It features masses of laybacking and undercutting. Although the rock is beautiful clean granite, some persistent wet streaks mean the route should only be attempted after a long dry spell. Carry a good rack including micro wires and duplicate cams in the mid ranges plus some larger ones. Start at the base of the large, left-facing, Yosemite-like groove.
1) 7-, 30m. Layback up the left-facing overlap, using some extremely thin jams, moving around an overhang to a hanging belay at a foothold.
2) 7, 25m. Continue laybacking and jamming up the unrelentingly steep groove to a tiny stance on the left.
3) 7, 25m. Two bolts protect hard moves to pass the overlap on the right to reach the higher arch. Layback left up this (often wet) past a peg and a wide section continuing with more difficulty to a hanging belay at a bolt.
4) 7, 30m. Traverse up and left, undercutting along the arch in a spectacular position. When the crack thins out, undercut left before making a very thin move to better jams and a small belay stance at a flake on the left.
5) 6+, 40m. Climb a small corner to a hollow flake and the base of a thin vertical crack in the upper slab. Climb the crack to the base of a groove then make a heroic move escaping out left to gain and climb a slabby corner to the base of the grim cleft of the 'Troll's Chimney'.
6) 4, 50m. Walk into the back of the chimney and climb to a ledge at its top.
FA. Ivar Olsen and Edly Grape climbed the first 2 pitches and the overlap start of pitch 3 on aid in 1981. Arild Meyer and Ed Webster free climbed the first 2 pitches on 23.7.1993 but were thwarted by the pitch 3 overlap. Returning on 4.8.1993, after a start up Fingerrrisset, Meyer and Webster placed one bolt each on aid on the overlap. The pitch 3 arch above was dripping wet; Webster led it almost entirely on aid, but Meyer followed it free except for the 2 aid bolts! These were eliminated by Jonas Tetlie, Andras Christiansen, Knut Storvik in the summer of 1998.


The best route I have done in Lofoten. Bring lots and lots of friend #1.5 and lots of friend #2. (Friend #2 is more useful on this route than red camalot).

Pitch 4 is not grade 7 when dry, more like 6+/7-.

I was not very happy with the stance at the end of pitch 4, the flake is a bit to loose for my taste.
Jonas Wiklund - 22/Jul/08

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