Odins bue Top 50

3 Stars

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(Odin's Bow) One of Lofoten's most sought-after hard climbs, ascending the large, left-facing arch on the cliff's left-hand side. It features masses of laybacking and undercutting. Although the rock is beautiful clean granite, some persistent wet streaks mean the route should only be attempted after a long dry spell. Carry a good rack including micro-wires and duplicate cams in the mid-ranges plus some larger ones. Start at the base of the large, left-facing, Yosemite-like groove.<br/>1) N7-, 30m. Layback up the left-facing overlap, using some extremely thin jams. Move around an overhang to a hanging belay at a foothold.<br/>2) N7, 25m. Continue laybacking and jamming up the unrelentingly steep groove to a tiny stance on the left.<br/>3) N7, 25m. Two bolts protect hard moves past the overlap on the right to reach the higher arch. Layback left up this (often wet) past a peg and a wide section, continuing with more difficulty to a hanging belay at a bolt.<br/>4) N7, 30m. Traverse up and left, undercutting along the arch in a spectacular position. When the crack thins out, undercut left before making a very thin move to better jams and a small belay stance at a flake on the left.<br/>5) N6+, 40m. Climb a small corner to a hollow flake and the base of a thin vertical crack in the upper slab. Climb the crack to a groove then make a heroic move out left to gain and climb a slabby corner to the base of a grim cleft, the 'Troll's Chimney'.<br/>6) N4, 50m. Walk into the back of the chimney and climb to a ledge at its top.
FA. Ivar Olsen and Edly Grape climbed the first 2 pitches and the overlap start of pitch 3 on aid in 1981. Arild Meyer and Ed Webster free climbed the first 2 pitches on 23.7.1993 but were thwarted by the pitch 3 overlap. Returning on 4.8.1993, after a start up Fingerrisset, Meyer and Webster placed one bolt each on aid on the overlap. The pitch 3 arch above was dripping wet; Webster led it almost entirely on aid, but Meyer followed it free except for the 2 aid bolts! These were eliminated by Jonas Tetlie, Andreas Christiansen, Knut Storvik in the summer of 1998.


The best route I have done in Lofoten. Bring lots and lots of friend #1.5 and lots of friend #2. (Friend #2 is more useful on this route than red camalot).

Pitch 4 is not grade 7 when dry, more like 6+/7-.

I was not very happy with the stance at the end of pitch 4, the flake is a bit to loose for my taste.
Jonas Wiklund - 22/Jul/08

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