2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Fingerrisset < Odins bue  |  Nemesis trollkirka > The Approach Pitch >>

(The Bumble Bee) A major route up the soaring buttress to the right of Odins bue. Carry a big aid rack including a full set of cams, two sets of wires, 10 knifeblades, 5 angles, 3 rurps, cam hooks and a range of regular hooks. Start at the left-facing groove right of Odins bue.<br/>1) A2, 30m. Climb the groove (rurps and birdbeaks early on) to reach a poor double-bolt belay.<br/>2) A2, 40m. Continue aid climbing up the groove and crack to reach a niche with a peg and strange bolt belay. This is just above the bolts on pitch 3 of Odins bue.<br/>3) N5, 30m. Exit rightwards then climb the slab passing some loose flakes to a stance (bolt belay) under the huge roof.<br/>4) A3, 15m. The 'Be as a Butterfly' pitch. Wildly exposed aid climbing over the roof and up the open groove, passing some loose rock, to reach a small stance on the left. <br/>5) N5-/A2, 25m. Continue up the right-trending groove to reach the hanging slab above then move left to a stance on the edge. <br/>6) N5, 40m. Make an exposed traverse left to reach a crack, then climb this and the continuation off-width to reach a ledge. Easy ground leads to the crest of the buttress.
FA. Dalibar Mlejnek, Roman Kalpárek (Czech Republic) 13/14.7.1999


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